In the Spring of 1845, the author of this book took his departure from Independence, Mo., in company with two hundred others, their wagon and necessary teams, for the long, and at that time uncertain journey across the Plains. The destination of the party was Oregon, which at that time might be considered somewhat indefinite as the whole of the possessions of the United States on the North West Coast of the Pacific embracing an immense area of country, beginning at the 42° of latitude south, extending to the Rocky Mountains, and from there to the line separating this territory on the seashore from California.

At that time referred to, the now State of Oregon, and the present extensive and flourishing Territory of Washington, constituted this far off and attractive part of the world known as Oregon, and which seemed to our adventurous citizens, to possess the inducements necessary for them to go, and undertake the settlement, and there build up new homes, and if possible new everything; and in undertaking this the reader can well imagine it was no trifling task to separate ones' self from the old associations of early life and start upon such an enterprise, at such time; for little was then known of the route across from the Atlantic to the Pacific: it is true a small emigration crossed the year before, but little information was derived from these early pioneers other than that they reached Oregon after a long and hazardous journey.

Our party after leaving Independence, proceeded up the Missouri river for four days, when it was thought advisable to halt, and remain there a week, there being good grass at the encampment, and recruiting our animals, get everything in proper readiness for the progress of our long journey; our company at this encampment all collected together numbering about forty wagons. Soon after our arrival at this point, we discovered fresh signs of Indians, which caused us to keep a pretty close guard over our animals, and indeed ourselves, for we were disposed to regard these Indians suspiciously, from accounts we had heard of them before leaving the settlements.

During the second day at this place; Indians could be seen on the hills adjacent to all appearances taking a survey of our encampment, doubtless for the purpose of making a descent either upon us or our cattle, neither of which we particularly desired; so we detailed a double guard to provide against a surprise and secure our cattle, as the Indians could see this movement, and doubtless did; for in two or three hours after this extra guard was instituted, they left, seemingly, but were still near evidently, for in the night of the third day it was discovered that the cattle were very restless and apparently frightened at Indians; we immediately took precaution of our horses near corral formed by placing our wagons around; this formed a kind of fortification, besides being a place of comparative safety for our stock. In addition to the guard already on duty we detailed a special horse guard, the night being very dark indeed so that we could not distinguish any object a little remote.

About daylight the cattle made another demonstration of uneasiness, and and one of the guard perceived an Indian rise from his place of concealment and run; the guard discharged his rifle at him, hurriedly, but without effect, notwithstanding all this vigilance on our part, these wily Indians succeeded in stealing quite a number of our cattle; upon this being ascertained a party of twenty-five immediately started out from camp in the direction that we heard a bell, that was around the neck of a trusty animal,the Indians had driven amongst the others they had stolen; this animal being frightened at the appearance of these unfamiliar masters, would not allow them to approach her, to remove the bell, and by this means we were able to continue the pursuit. The Indians finding it impossible to get near this "bell cow" endeavored to kill her, for we found a number of arrows had pierced the poor creature and it seemed to be an effort on the part of the Indians to get her out of hearing, for she was in advance of all the rest of the stock and in and in the pursuit we passed nearly all, save this animal, and perhaps two or three others, hurried along by means of this bell.

When fairly light we saw perhaps a dozen Indians on horses, and others on foot forcing the cattle along. As soon as they discovered us, they abandoned the cattle and fled, we taking possession, and driving them back, found others belonging to us had broken from the Indians in the stampede. On our return to camp we found three still missing and a party started immediately in search of them, but finding where one had been butchered the night before, gave up the search and returned to camp, where we killed the bell the bell animal in consequence of the many wounds she had received from the bows of the Indians. Breakfast being over, we yoked our teams and making a short day's drive encamped in fine grass, where we enjoyed a quiet nights rest, without any interruption. About sun rise next morning one of the party hearing a noise a short distance from camp, and supposing it to be game of some kind, went out to secure it, when behold! he discovered an Indian perched in the fork of a tree, probable making observations for the purpose of facilitating some subsequent movement against us; the gentleman discovering him having no very kind feeling toward the "Red Skins" thought he would make one less of their number, so leveling his rifle brought the Indian boy to the ground, so to be cared for by his friends, should they chance that way.

Soon after this affair, we broke up this encampment and after a long day's drive encamped for the night on what is called the Big Blue; here we saw indications of the encampment of the little party called "The first emigration," who proceeded us in the year 1843; from these indications we supposed they must have had rather an unpleasant time just here; in fact I have since learned that they were obliged in consequence of high waters to remain here for three weeks or more, the whole country contiguous to the River being completely inundated. Our party here being more fortunate than our predecessors, had no difficulty in crossing, it being in very good stage for fording.

From the encampment on the Big Blue we journeyed on, encountering Indians that day who did not seem badly disposed; that night however, we kept a pretty strict watch, though nothing occurred particularly worthy of note.

Next night we encamped on the Little Blue, where we established for the time being a sort of ferry, converting our wagon beds into boats for transportation, having before starting provided ourselves with those which would answer the double purpose of both land and water craft.

At this time encampment on the Little Blue there were more wolves than I ever saw, or might say ever heard of before, for they made the night hideous with their yelling, and to persons unaccustomed to such sounds, and in a strange country it is anything but musical; at least it seemed to me as if all the wolves for a thousand miles around had congregated at this particular place, for our especial benefit. In the morning they could be seen dispersing in droves, in different directions, and we were by no means loth to part with these “traveling musicians.”

From Little Blue we passed on west from day to day without seeing or hearing anything particularly worthy of note, other than is always the case in a travel of this kind, always seeing a variety of game, which imparts some little interest, and relieved the monotony of our mode of travel.

We were now fairly in the Platte River Country and the rain for the past twenty-four hours pouring down in torrents. At the expiration of this day, we stopped and encamped for the night. Smoke could be seen at some distance and fearing interruption from the Indians our guard was instantly placed on duty; but whether they discharged their duties faithfully, the reader can decide, when informed that morning discovered several of our horses missing; this being ascertained the wagon train proceeded forward up the valley of the Platte River, while myself with nine others of the party armed and mounted on fine horses started in pursuit of the party having our horses. We had at times some difficulty in keeping on their track, for the Indians displayed considerable ingenuity, traveling in the creeks for the purpose of avoiding detection.

We traveled that day perhaps fifty miles, at last, the sun not being more than an hour high, we espied our horses standing in close proximity to some Indians who were apparently engaged in preparing food for themselves. We commenced a charge when perhaps half a mile distant, but they did not discover us until we were within two hundred yards, when they sprang for the horses; but anticipating this moment on their part, we commenced a tremendous yelling, and urging our horses forward, succeeded in preventing the Indians reaching them. In this charge we not only recovered our own horses but captured seven additional ones from the retreating Indians, who, to the number of about thirty, took refuge in a thicket where we deemed it unadvisable to penetrate. Feeling very well satisfied with the result of the little expedition, we determined to make our way to the company, and traveled about twenty miles in that direction, encamping for the night very noiselessly and without fire. On the evening of the next day we overtook our company and enjoyed a night free from disturbance.

Next morning we started in good health and spirits, and during our day’s travel, one of the party killed a porcupine, which afforded considerable sport, the animal evincing his fretful propensities to the amusement of some and alarm of others, none of us before having seen a living specimen.

Toward evening we came in sight of quite a large Indian village, and there being a probability that we would not find water until after dark we determined to camp here for the night; the Indians soon visited us, and seemed disposed to cultivate a friendly intercourse which we gave them to understand we appreciated, supposing we were in need of food, they brought us a few dead prairie dogs, and some screech owls; doubtless these are considered delicacies among them, but fortunately we had plenty of food more familiar and palatable to us, and we declined partaking of these rare dishes, though they were strongly recommended to us, as nearly as we could understand the language of our visitors. They brought deer skin, buffalo robes, and many other things which they were desirous of trading and some of which we purchased. We then visited their camp and discovered many curious things to us; they made us understand that they wanted any and every kind of clothing for which they would give us anything, in return. After spending some time with them, as it was growing dark we thought it advisable to return to our camp, not knowing but that from the unreliable character of Indians all this intimacy might terminate in a flare up.

Notwithstanding we had every assurance from them that we should be safe both in our persons and property, while we remained, we felt some apprehension and took the precaution to corral our stock and secure our horses, besides keeping up the regular guard; however there was not the slightest indication of a disposition to molest us in any way. In the morning we made the chief some little presents which pleased him and his people very much; we then turned out our stock to feed, and the Indians visited us as before, wishing to trade. This we did not embark in to any great extent our pursuit being in different channel, but we contrived to keep them well pleased, and they contributed no little to our entertainment, while we remained at this encampment. These Indians, known as the Sioux tribe, are considered pretty numerous and are rather good looking, both male and female; in their rude and uncultivated way they seemed to have some regard to their appearance and deportment, at least during our sojourn amongst them. Their clothing was composed of dressed skins of various kinds and it may be here remarked that some of the women have pretty features and as general thing, are comfortably dressed, to all appearances their gowns being composed of the dressed elk and deer hides and made long with some observance of decency, which cannot be said of all Indians; the children who are too small to use the bow and arrow, however, are permitted to run at large, in a state of nudity, this exposure in all probability prepares them for the subsequent hardships they have to endure.

We left this encampment and after a long day’s drive, reached a place where we could obtain plenty of grass and water; up to this point in our journey, we were able to have in camp an old fashioned wood fire, but there was no wood obtainable, and we were obliged to procure “Buffalo chips”; this the young men disliked very much, being the first time they were ever engaged in such business; particularly as there were some ladies in our company (which fact I neglected to mention before, and for which the reader will doubtless pardon me, when assured they comprised decidedly the most interesting portion of our company), but there being no alternative ladies were obliged to divest themselves of all fastidiousness and make use of this fuel for all cooking purposes, which after the first shock proved an excellent substitute for fire wood. Holes were dug in the ground and filled with these chips, at which the ladies soon cooked us excellent suppers, after enjoying which, we had a night of uninterrupted quietude.

Early next morning everything in camp was prepared to leave, and we traveled until about one o’clock when we had to cross Platte River, while making preparations for crossing, an immense herd of buffalo came in view; in fact the whole country as far as we can see, presented a mass of buffaloes on a stampede, coming toward us; having heard of the danger of encountering these roving herds in their stampede, we immediately went to work preparing ourselves and animals, against the approach of these formidable travelers of the plains. Several of our company more daring than the others took a position on an eminence and, keeping an incessant firing of guns and pistols, succeeded in a diversion of their route, to within two hundred yards of us, so that we shot quite a number of them. It was estimated that this army of buffaloes was at least two hours in passing our encampment or fortification and immediately following them, were immense gangs of wolves, making the most hideous noise; these “hangers on” of the army above referred to, are not unlike in their object in the “hangers on” of some of our more civilized armies, that is seeking something to devour; they follow the buffaloes in these stampedes in the hopes that some may tire, and being able to keep up, get in the rear, when they are best with the followers, who by the gnawing of their ham strings, render them unable to travel and easy prey for the wolves.

As soon as quiet was restored after the passage of this army, we hitched our teams and crossing the Platte River established our camp and detailed a guard to keep off the wolves while our cattle were feeding, eventually corralling for the night. The next morning we started early, but soon stopped, for the purpose of jerking the buffalo meat we had secured; having occasion for some of a good deal of fuel at this encampment “Buffalo Chips” was the absorbing subject of conversation, in which I believe was pretty generally conceded that it was legitimate fuel for us on our Journey and should not be disapproved of as it made a fire that answered our every purpose.

Next morning a small band of buffaloes came in sight and some of the company came out to meet and if possible surround them and drive them toward camp, where we were to shoot them, this arrangement succeeded admirably, as we secured two fine ones in good order, but unfortunately in passing us, they ran through the midst of our cattle which were feeding, causing them to become frightened and move along with the herd all leaving at full speed.

Eight or ten men started in pursuit to recover our animals, and succeeded in overtaking them but were unable to separate the cattle from the buffaloes, and were obliged to abandon them; this was rather a serious loss, as some of the company in the morning were compelled to yoke up cows as substitutes for the run away oxen.

We are now traveling up the north fork of the Platte River, where there was profusion of game, consisting principally of deer and antelopes; we here found no difficulty in procuring what we wished particularly the antelopes, as we could easily decoy them as near as desired by tying a red handkerchief to the end of a stick, laying down, and waving it. This day we were gratified with a view of quite a large drove of wild horses; they came near us and looked at us and then started at rapid speed across the prairie; some of these had the appearance of being noble animals, and many of us wished we could call them our own.

This evening we camped at a place where the grass was short, and so concluded to swim our cattle across the Platte River, where grass was abundant; as night approached some were desirous for the cattle to remain on this side of the river, and a guard detailed for their protection, while others were in favor of bringing them back to the camp and having them corralled for the night; the result was that some left their cattle over the river, and others brought them near camp, and corralled them, when guards were appointed for both places. During the night the cattle became frightened at Indians prowling around their feeding ground and commenced a stampede down the river, when the guard discovered and fired on the Indians at the same time saying Indians! Indians! Much confusion ensued, the females of our company being much frightened and indeed the entire party considerably alarmed; for we thought it most probable we should lose our cattle which would be disastrous indeed, even if so fortunate to escape ourselves. The guard on the other side secured all the cattle they could, or rather some of those who had not joined in the stampeded, and dashing into the river brought them safely to camp for protection. Immediately fifteen of the Company started in pursuit of the cattle, and the rest remained on guard at camp.

In the disposition of the stock on this ill-fated evening a part of our horses was picketed on the unfortunate side of the river, some distance from the cattle. As soon as we became sufficiently composed to look around,we found that four or five horses were missing also. Finding a shoal in the river we crossed over to get the remaining stock; there we ascertained our loss to be twenty five cattle, in addition to the horses. The stock we found on this side of the river were driven to camp, where we awaited the result of the expedition, uncertain of the difficulties they might encounter. The day was one of the great anxiety and at night our comrades were still absent, and their wives and children were most inconsolable, conjecturing that the party in their attempt to recover their property had perished at the hands of savages. About midnight they returned, however, bringing only five of our missing stock; their return was greeted with pleasure, yet some feeling of disappointment, as it was evident that we now must abandon our cattle.

When they discovered the Indians it was ascertained that they had taken the precaution to have their horses on the opposite side of the river, the more effectually to assist in their escape, if detected. As soon as our men approached them, they jumped the river and were soon out of sight, numbering eight men, after their retreat they found five head of cattle, which were killed and left on the ground by the Indians which with the five the other cattle and horses must have gone in another direction.

The next morning we left this encampment and proceeded from day to day on our journey up the river, until we concluded to halt for the purpose of washing our clothes and recruiting our teams. Early the next morning after our encampment here we discovered a large party of Indians approaching us, which created considerable bustle; fire arms were brought into requisition examined and put into readiness for use should they make any hostile demonstration; but they halted at a respectful distance and the chief accompanied by a half breed, came up and asked us for tobacco, which was given him, he then said through his interpreter, this half breed, that he was our friend, and that this people should commit no trespasses onus or our property. They were a party of Sioux, and were traveling rather strangely equipped, having long poles lashed to either side of their horses, perhaps fifteen feet long resembling in appearance, what is known in some parts of the United States as a "jumper" used in sleighing, upon these odd looking affairs they had all their moveables piled, and really seemed heavily loaded as they dragged along, there were about eighty horses in the company and about two hundred Indians. They were camped near us, and these poles used as a conveyance for their goods, were converted into tent poles, as well, and erected in such a way as to give them a sugar loaf shape, when the dressed hides stretched over them. In the morning the Chief again visited us, and we determined to give them an entertainment each wagon contributing two dishes to the feast making in all eighty dishes. They were invited to dinner and the food placed on the ground before them, when four chiefs acting as waiters helped the others, in the most primitive style, sticking their hands into pease, rice mush and pudding without reference to knives forks or spoons. After demolishing nearly everything before them, the head chief expresses a desire through his interpreter to deliver a speech, which we requested him to do: "My White brothers and friends, this is the first time I ever had an opportunity of speaking to you, but I hope it will not be the last. I have been treated badly by some white people but you have treated me like brothers."

These Indians are rather good looking being some of same tribe we met before, and though their countenances seemed to express a great deal of friendship, notwithstanding all these civilities we kept an eye on their movements until we left next morning.

We traveled on without anything very material occurring but seeing all the time abundance of game, the plains abounding with elk, deer, antelopes, buffaloes, long eared rabbits, some bears and thousands of wolves. We came to an Indian village which the inhabitants were just vacating and we were particularly impressed by their manner of transporting their effects, which was somewhat after the style of the Sioux heretofore described, other than these were employing wolves or dogs resembling them very much instead of horses. They packed large loads on the long poles, piling them high, and leaving nothing in view except the head of the animals and these huge loads attached to them. There had been fifteen or twenty loads sent off, and I discovered there was no one in attendance on theses strange conveyances, the animals walking off as though they knew where to go, and the Indians seeming to have all confidence in their performance of the duties entrusted in them.

I was induced to go and inquire into this proceeding and was told or made to understand that one of these drags had started in the direction of their travel some time ago, under the superintendence of an Indian and that the rest would faithfully follow on their trail, without further attention. An old squaw was engaged in loading one of these concerns, and I had the curiosity to examine into all the particulars and to see whether the animal was in reality a wolf or dog but could discern no difference in the appearance from the wolves we constantly saw. Upon nearing this animal he regarded me very intently for some nearing this animal he regarded me very intently for some time and discovering I was a stranger started at full speed strewing his unsecured burden in every direction over the prairie. The old squaw pursued him screaming with all her might in her effort to stop him but in vain; on he went, finally dispossessing himself of his shafts, and the last I saw of him he was bounding across the prairie, apparently now in his element.

This evening we encamped early and turned out our stock to graze, about dark corralling them where they remained safely and quietly until morning, as well as ourselves. Soon after we started we ascertained that a cow had strayed away from the others, and I went out in quest of her; becoming thirsty, I alighted at an inviting and beautiful little spring, expecting a cool drink of water; upon filling my mouth I was astonished and disappointed at finding it a hot spring and my mouth scalded. Procuring the cow I rejoined the train, and traveled until evening when after encampment, one of the company expressed his intention of going out in search of deer; we observed him enter a bend of the river bottom where there was a thicket of brush, and soon afterwards heard him halloo, but attached no importance to it, as no Indians had been seen in this vicinity. A sufficient length of time having elapsed for his return, we became anxious for his safety and five of us started to look for him, when to our horror we found his lifeless body on the ground divested of clothing and scalp. It was impossible to track the Indians to avenge his death, and in the morning we interred his body as decently as possible, and shedding a tear over the grave of one of our little community, we left the encampment and resumed our journey.

After a few days’ travel during which nothing specially interesting occurred, we encamped in view of the Chimney Rock, and the next evening encamped close by this beacon of the plain, when after adjusting matters in camp, some of us visited this curiosity and were highly gratified. This rock towers up to the height of perhaps two hundred and fifty feet, presenting a very imposing appearance, and very much resembling a well proportioned chimney, from the base to the Summit. On this huge pillar we found inscribed the names of many who preceded us the year before in their journey across the plains, to Oregon. On our return to camp we encountered some antelopes of which we killed two.

Next morning we made an early start and after traveling a short distance, saw near us a single buffalo, two young men went out on horseback to have some sport, and if possible to kill him, when in their pursuit they ran him close by the train where he received a number of shots; he fell upon his haunches, but standing erect on his forelegs, made battle with all who came near him; finally he was shot through the heart, which ended the career of the lonely buffalo. Abundance of game could be seen throughout the day, and we encamped early, in good grass, and passed a quiet night. Thence we continued our journey for several days uninterruptedly, when we came up to an encampment of Indians who proved to be a war party of two hundred or more of the Crow Tribe, and equipped for battle. They asked us through an interpreter, whether we had seen any of the Sioux Tribe; this question we answered rather evasively, not wishing to be the bearers of any information which might lead to a difficulty; particularly when we recollected the assurances of friendship and the quiet deportment of the last party of Sioux we had seen. These Indians said the Sioux had been killing their buffalo and other game on their lands, and that they were now in search of them to obtain redress for these injuries, and they presented quite a formidable appearance. This conversation took place between a deputation of five of our company and the Indians, which was done to prevent their coming too near us, and frightening our cattle, which showed signs of alarm, though we took the precaution to drive some distance around them.

Notwithstanding all this, an Indian approached a wagon in the rear, having a mule team attached, which became frightened and rushed forward, causing all the other teams to start also, and the whole train of forty wagons dashed across the plains, the drivers having no control over the frantic animals, and the women and children who were inmates of the wagons, screaming with all their voices, some of the wagons upset, thus creating a state of affairs in our midst truly alarming, and it was some time before we could again exert any control over our teams, and stop them; when we finally did, it was ascertained that we had sustained considerable injury, some of our wagons lying on one side and teams detached from them in some instances, others with the wheels broken, and the contents strewn promiscuously around, while some of our company were lying out with broken legs, and others seriously injured, the whole scene presenting a most disastrous appearance. The Indians having witnessed the entire affair, were hastening to us, prompted no doubt by curiosity; but we, entertaining no very kind feeling for them just then, sent a guard of twenty men to intercept them and request they should advance no nearer; this being accomplished, we encamped to repair our damages. Fortunately there was a grove of cotton wood in this vicinity where we could obtain wood for heating our wheel tires, and after a two days’ delay we again started westward. In the evening we encamped at Fort Laramie, an American trading post, which some of us visited and found the occupants clever people who seemed pleased to see us, while we were equally glad to meet with them; a white settlement so remote from civilization seeming a kind of protection, in the midst of this wild country. Bidding adieu to these adventurers we resumed our journey and traveled on very comfortably, toward evening encamping on one of the many tributaries of North Platte River about twenty miles distant from Fort Laramie in good grass.

Continuing our journey day after day, up streams, and ascending hills, being now in the Black Hills, we encamped one evening at a place called the Red Buttes, or rather in sight of this strange looking place, which has the appearance of the river having forced its way through the mountains, and leaving these Buttes standing high in the air, a monument of what existed in the past.

After two days farther travel we encamped near Independence Rock, which curiosity we visited and found inscribed on its eternal sides the names of many of the Company who passed by in the first emigration, besides many others, doubtless of mountaineers and trappers. According to our estimation this rock occupies an area of two or three acres and is about a hundred and fifty feet high, having other peculiarities of interest to the traveler. It is situated near Sweet Water River, a tributary of the Great Platte, upon whose banks we have traveled so far, and to which we bade adieu, some distance behind. I may here say this Sweet Water River is justly entitled to the name it bears, for the water is truly sweet, coming directly out of the Rocky Mountains pure and sparkling.

From this station we started next morning up the Sweet Water River in the direction of the south pass of the Rocky Mountains, finally encamping on the Summit of this Pass, leaving here we came to a place where there was good grass and again established our camp; here we soon found an ox mired in apparently solid ground, and in extricating him, observed a peculiarity of the earth, which seemed to be floating on the surface of the water, for in walking on it, one would be impressed with this belief, from its waving, rocking motion; this is a somewhat justificable conclusion as there is an abundance of water at this locality which is known as the Pacific Spring.

After spending the night pleasantly here, we started early in the morning with the entire party in splendid spirits, as it was evident we were now descending the western slope of the Rocky Mountains and encamped in the evening on one of the tributaries of the Pacific Ocean. Here we noticed that Indians had been encamped but a short time previous, a rather unpleasant discovery, as it obliged us to again keep the strictest watch over our persons and property. However, we passed the night quietly and next morning traveled on finely, our road being descending we were able to wheel over the road at quite a brisk rate.

In the afternoon Indians were observed on the hills around taking a view of us, and late in the evening we stopped on a little stream where there was considerable brush; as soon as the horses and cattle had finished feeding we corralled the latter, and tied the horses to the wagons. One of the men who manifested a great deal of solicitude for his horse, wishing him to have all the advantages in feeding, said he would take blankets and lie where there was grass, near the brush, with one end of the rope attached to the horse around his arm, and let him feed all night. We expostulated with him, but to no purpose.

The guards were placed for the night, but the wolves kept such an incessant howling that it was impossible to sleep; towards day one of the guards fired, as he supposed at a wolf, when an Indian ran off; the report of the gun aroused the man who had been so careful of his horse to find his rope cut and the horse gone; at daylight we searched around for the animal but could only see where the Indians had been crawling about in the grass; most probably the noise we supposed to be of wolves was made by the Indians, to conceal their advance on us; this ruse is frequently practiced by them. Upon consultation we determined that as the owner of the horse had acted contrary to our advice we would not pursue the Indians to recover him, and making an early start we traveled all of this day and night, until nine o’clock in the morning, when we rested our teams and let them feed.

Resuming our journey and breaking our road through sage brushes all the way which was rather tedious and fatiguing to our animals, we encamped in the evening near quite a large stream and passed the night comfortably after a laborious drive of two days and a night, without rest for ourselves or animals. The next day was occupied in transporting our effects across this river in wagon beds, which being accomplished we remained until morning; we then traveled on for three days, finding plenty of grass and water at all our encampments, and seeing abundance of game of all kinds, except the buffalo, which we have not found since leaving the country contiguous to Fort Laramie, though finding occasionally a herd of wild horses. Here we are much annoyed by the Army crickets, the whole surface of the ground being covered with these insects, about an inch and a half long, and without wings; these insects seem to be migratory; for they are always moving in myriads over the entire country it seemed. Arriving at Bear River we camped and met there with a party of Indians and three Frenchmen, living with them, and having Indian wives; these people were busily engaged in catching the Army crickets before alluded to, by sticking the ends of sticks in the ground, in rows so thick that the crickets could not pass through them, and terminating the rows in points like the letter V with an opening at the end where they placed a basket to receive the crickets they drove into the traps; in an incredibly brief time the basket would be filled and they would place another, continuing this all day; they thus caught immense quantities which were dried on a stone kiln and then removed to a mortar manufactured by themselves, where with a pestle they reduced these singular insects to meal or flour which seemed to be regarded as a staple and delicate article of food among them, which they eat heartily and grow fat upon. In preparing it for food, this meal is stirred into a kettle of boiling water until rendered thick mush, when an inch of grease remains on top; they say that this meal will keep for a year, upon hearing which I could but voluntarily exclaim that it would last in my possession much longer, if for my own eating alone.

Leaving this camp next morning we pursued our journey along Bear River, and encamped in the evening at a natural soda spring, where we found two Frenchmen, their squaws and their half breed children, they very hospitably invited us to partake of some cricket mush and one of our companions induced by the kindness of their manner, tasted some, which immediately made him sick, perhaps owing to his knowledge of the manufacture; but as I did not taste it myself I can say nothing favorable of this dish, other than these people seemed to relish it very much.

These soda springs are well worthy of notice, possessing all the properties of pure soda water; one of them particularly attracted our attention and admiration, the water gushing out in foam about six times in a minute, through a rock which has been formed by the action of the water; this rock is quite uniform in shape and the aperture through which the soda water flows is round and perhaps three inches in diameter, giving the jet an imposing appearance as it gushes at intervals, falling gracefully back into its natural fountain in sparkling streams then wasting itself in every direction around. We used this water in making our bread and found it answered all the purposes of yeast, so we carried a quantity away as a substitute for it. After leaving eh soda springs we found our road extremely dusty, as it had been for some days past, so that it was scarcely endurable; some times after traveling a few hours we were unable to distinguish each other, being completely disguised with a coating of black dust which gave us the appearance of a company of Africans, instead of white persons. Traveling on until about two o’clock we came to water, one of the springs being wide and deep and presenting a very inviting appearance, three men who were on horseback, rode in to water their horses, which commenced rearing and plunging through it in the most frantic manner, almost throwing their riders, who could not divine what was the matter; when finding it impossible to quiet them they came out and examined the water which was found to be boiling, though presenting no appearance of it; about twenty steps from here was a large spring of splendid cold water.

A short distance farther on we observed a large smooth rock perhaps forty feet in length and twenty wide, with an opening in the side large enough to admit of a person crawling in, the rock being perfectly hollow and not more than three or four inches thick; not far from this rock we discovered an opening in the earth about thirty feet across to which we could find no bottom; by throwing in rocks we could hear them bounding from side to side against the rocks, until the sound was lost in the distance.

Pursuing our journey next morning, we discovered Indians on the hills not far off during the day, and at sundown we camped and placed strong guards around our encampment. The Indians were lurking around all night howling in imitation of wolves, to deceive us, and enable them to approach and occasionally the guard would fire in the direction of one of these noisy visitors, to keep them at a safe distance. As soon as it was light enough we turned the cattle out to feed, and found that they soon manifested disturbance at something; upon examination we found many of them pierced by arrows, whereupon twenty of us armed with rifles charged the thicket close by and five Indians retreated to the hills adjacent; their flight was so precipitate that we concluded not to follow them, as it was not probable we could overtake them. Some Indians on an eminence not far off commenced shooting at our camp, and we hurried back, while our comrades were returning their fire; it was soon ascertained that the distance was too great for the shots of either party to have much effect, and the Indians having the advantage of the position, we decided to charge them; leaving the old men in camp with the women and children, we commenced a vigorous charge up the hill, during which time the Indians were firing upon, but luckily overshooting us, and we reserving our fire until within nearer distance, but before we discharged our pieces they evacuated their position and fled over the hills, where we did not pursue them.

Upon our return to camp we ascertained a number of the enemy’s shot had penetrated our wagon beds, fortunately doing no other damage, although the families had taken refuge in the wagons during the skirmish.

The next day we arrived at the crossing of Snake river, when two men of the company forded it for the purpose of hunting on the other side, and did not return that night; in the morning four men went in search of them, and found blood and the traces of something being dragged in the ground; they followed this and found the body of one of these men divested of its scalp, clothing, gun, etc. After looking around and making the most diligent search for the other and seeing no traces of him, they concluded that he had shared a similar fate, and burying the comrade already found as best they could, returned to camp. We now made preparation for crossing the river, which was very rapid and deep, and perhaps two hundred yards wide; the crossing was effected by propping up the wagon beds above the reach of the water and having three men on horseback by the team of the first wagon, to which the others were all chained each to the preceding one, and with a man on horseback to keep the teams straight, we reached the opposite bank safely, though some of the smaller cattle were forced to swim. Continuing our travels peacefully for three or four days we reached Fort Boise, where we had to recross Snake River, and here we encamped and remained a day. During this time a man whose name was Steven S. Meeks, (Meek) came along with a company of Parkers (packers) for Oregon; he said he had traveled the country between this point and Oregon many times and was quite familiar with the route; and that he would pilot us a near way that would save us a number of days’ travel, provided that we would pay him for this service five dollars for each wagon in our train. We consulted with the Manager at Fort Boise, in relation to this and he informed us that Mr. Meeks had passed the Fort three times to his knowledge, and also that he knew that there was a pack trail, through the country that Mr. Meeks designed going, so the most of us decided to follow him; after going down the river for a few miles we turned up a creek, leaving the old road that was traveled by the trappers.

Our guide said he had passed some distance in our rear, quite a large train of wagons en route to Oregon, and that he had informed them of the route he proposed taking us. At this point a part of our company concluded to adhere to the old road that was traveled by the trappers. We drove along for several days without being molested by Indians, though frequently seeing them, until we arrived at an exceedingly rough mountainous place, where we had to establish our road as we went, over a country never traveled perhaps by human being, save the trapper in pursuit of game, or roving savages. Sometimes for the distance of many miles the entire surface of the Country was covered with a medium sized stone or boulder, just large enough to make it difficult to travel over them; the only way the teams behind could distinguish the route was by the bruised and broken boulders, occasioned by the wheels of the front wagons passing over them, and the blood from the feet of our poor animals that suffered almost beyond endurance, for in many instances they would lie down and suffer any kind of punishment in preference to rising, and frequently we were obliged to leave them lying upon the rocks where nothing could be obtained for them to eat.

Finally crossing this range of mountains the route became better, being comparatively relieved of these miserable stones so destructive to our teams, although destitute of water; in the hope of reaching water we were now obliged to urge our exhausted animals forward, and in this effort drove all night when we could. One night thirty of our cows left us, and we did not know but that they were stolen by the Indians, although we had seen nor heard nothing of them since penetrating this miserable country, which seemed almost impervious to the savages even.

A great deal of dissatisfaction was expressed in our company towards our guide, Mr. Meeks, and it was whispered that two gentlemen having about three hundred head of cattle between them had contracted privately with our guide to pilot the train into the Upper Willamette country for the extra sum of one hundred dollars, each, and the company to be kept ignorant of this arrangement, which it was thought had induced Mr. Meeks to depart from the route with which he was acquainted.

This created a feeling almost akin to hostility among the company which required no small effort to control; after journeying along in the most wretched way imaginable, both ourselves and stock destitute of water, we were about to despair when we came to two small springs, where we encamped, though there was very little grass; but we had water and were loth to leave it, not knowing where we could find more, if ever; our guide being interrogated as to our route in this direction, seemed entirely a a loss, and not disposed to commit himself, as to what we might expect in regard to water, the geography of the Country we were to encounter, or any other information we desired. Here there was decided uneasiness in camp, and we had thus far suffered so much under the guidance of this person, that it was probably well that he did not venture a prognostication as to our future, as it was now evident that he was totally unfamiliar with the country, as destitute of all things essential to an emigration party.

Our company increased at these springs, and thirty wagons of our immediate company that had gone forward the day before, came back alarmed at the prospect before them, to find that other trains from the Atlantic side learning of the course we had taken, from the manager at Fort Boise, had followed us here having experienced the same difficulties that we had encountered, so that our company now numbered in wagons, one hundred and fifty. Parties left the camp in the direction we were to travel, in search of water and grass, and returned at night with the discouraging intelligence that none could be found; about ten o’clock at night our guide returned with the same information; the straggling grass around the encampment was soon consumed, though upon the hillsides among the rocks, frequent patches of bunch grass were found -- enough to keep the animals alive.

The number of men on horseback constantly exploring the mountains in quest of water now numbered one hundred, fully impressed with the anxiety with which they were regarded by their fellow travelers; yet these explorations were continued seven days unsuccessfully; the excitement was intense, and famine seemed inevitable. The feelings of our company towards the guide were of that unmistakable character to justify me in telling him his life was in danger; his reply was “I have known it for several days, but what can I do? I have brought you here, and will take you off, if you will go”. He then asked if our teams would follow: I told him that I thought a portion of this large train might be induced to follow, regarding, I must confess, the contingency of remaining here, or following this guide in whom none of us had the slightest confidence, as equally desperate. Many of us thought that at all events, the company had better separate as nothing was being accomplished by remaining together except greater distress; so we admonished the guide to secrete himself in one of our wagons and remain there; during this time inquiries were made after him by parties, who wished him to go with them in search of water, which was of no sort of use as the entire country had been explored; they were told that he had gone, and started; about thirty wagons of our immediate company now commenced preparations for leaving, filling beef hides and everything that would contain water; we left the encampment about two o’clock in the day, feeling rather sad at leaving the others, with so much uncertainty of ever meeting them again. A good many of our company were sick, not only of heart, but body also, occasioned from scarcity of the proper kind of food; in fact we had been compelled to kill stock that we were desirous to save and bring to Oregon if it were possible to get there; there being no game of any kind; however, these cattle would have died if we had not killed them as they were gradually sinking from the fatigue and privations they had had to endure.

It was now about five months since we took our departure from the Atlantic States and there was considerable sickness in our company. Notwithstanding this we traveled all the afternoon and night succeeding our departure from the rest of the emigration, and turned our cattle out to feed upon all they could get, and to obtain the dew that had fallen the night before; after this we started again and traveled all day; towards evening we gave our oxen a little of the water we had brought from the Springs, then continued traveling all night, allowing our animals to graze and avail themselves of the dew, as we did the day before and then started on the third day’s drive from the Springs, first giving our teams a little water to enable them to proceed. Just before sunset of this day we heard a number of shots fired in the direction we were going and afterwards the firing was renewed much nearer to us; looking forward we discovered a man coming at full speed on horseback -- our guide had found water!

It is impossible to describe the joy with which this news was received; some were so overcome that they could not give utterance to their feelings of joy, while tears of gratitude streamed down their cheeks, others gave vent to their delight in loud exultations; the women and children clapping their hands and giving other demonstrations that they too were enraptured by the announcement of plenty of water. In fact the poor animals seemed to have an appreciation of it too for it is said in scarcity an animal can smell food or water at a great distance; at any rate they traveled along apparently more cheerfully. At the time we received information of our approach to water, we could not have been more than five miles distant from a tributary of the De Shutes River, which we reached very hurriedly as might be imagined and were once again greeted with the sight of plenty of water and grass.

We established our camp here intending to remain several days, and recruit ourselves and cattle; soon after our arrival, we perceived something in the distance, and supposing it might be a herd of buffaloes a party started in that direction and, when nearing them, discovered them to be the band of cows we had lost some distance behind; steps were at once taken to secure them, but this was attended with some difficulty as they had become quite wild and were indisposed to be driven, although very gentle at the time we lost them; most probably they had been chased and frightened by the Indians, in fact they bore evidence of this, many of them having arrows sticking in them, which we extricated after getting them into camp. We remained at this station until some of the company, we left in the rear, overtook us and then continued our journey down this stream and encamped at night in grass.

During our journey next day we were visited by Indians who appeared friendly, though rather shy, however I purchased a horse from one of them. This night upon camping we detailed as we supposed a sufficient guard for any emergency with Indians, but in the morning discovered that two of our oxen were shot by their arrows, one of them so badly that we were obliged to leave the poor creature on the ground to die.

Still traveling on this creek for several days, during which time we were much afflicted with sickness, and several deaths, we finally reached a point where the stream flowed through a deep channel of perhaps one hundred and fifty feet, so precipitous that we could obtain no water for ourselves or animals, except a little procured by means of tying ropes together until the bottom could be reached; the person drawing the water would approach the bank on his hands and knees with ropes attached to his body, held by several men, and, lowering the bucket, obtain water for cooking purposes, but not sufficient for drinking, so that even the sick suffered for it; the animals could scarcely be restrained from springing into the water in their eagerness to allay their thirst.

This is the De Shutes River, a tributary of the Columbia. The next day after leaving the place we discovered a place where we could procure water although attended with difficulty as we were obliged to travel around another deep channel. After making our way through this broken country for three or four days, along this river we arrived at a part of it where the banks were not too high to swim our cattle to the other shore, this being the direction of our travel; at this point Indians came to us and said we were within two days travel of the Columbia River, which we were rejoiced to hear though not positive of its authenticity; after hearing this our guide said we were not more than thirty miles from Waller’s Mission, a Methodist establishment.

At this place, where we swam our cattle, the current of the river was very rapid, and we regarded it unsafe to launch our water tight wagon beds for ferrying ourselves and property across, so resolved upon another expedient, stretching a large rope from bank to bank and suspending a wagon bed beneath to work on rollers. With a rope attached to it from either side of the stream, we were enabled to cross without being exposed to the water; but before this was put in practicable operation a man rode up in great haste and informed our guide that he would have to leave immediately, as two young men of the company had died, and their father had taken an oath that the guide should die before sundown; attributing the death of his sons to the unsatisfactory way we had been guided through the mountains since leaving Fort Boise. The guide understanding the feeling existing towards him in the company, left with his wife and going to some Indians near by, told them to put them over the river at all hazards, several of us who were anxious to see his escape effected, following to witness his departure.

One Indian taking the end of a rope in his mouth swam to the opposite shore, securing the ends upon each bank, then fastening another rope to this suspended one, which worked in a kind of running noose, they secured it under the arms of the guide, tight enough to keep his head above water, and carried him safely across and then his wife in a similar manner, who by the way evinced a great deal of heroism upon this as all former occasions since her connection with our party. The Indians had horses on the other side of the river, of which they availed themselves without change of their clothing, and were soon out of sight; they had not been gone more than fifteen minutes when two men rode up with rifles and inquired the whereabouts of the guide. Being told that he had gone in the direction of our destination, the old man replied that it was perhaps well, as his sons were now buried.

After crossing the river we had everything made ready for starting in the direction of Waller’s Mission, which we reached the following day; here Mr. Waller had wheat, pease and potatoes, which he sold to the half famished emigrants, who were too hungry to cook their food more than half done, before eating it, in consequence of which before morning many of them were very sick, and my most intimate companion on this journey died from the effects; the others all recovered but I felt the loss of my friend most sensibly.

We remained at this Mission four days, during which time Mr. Waller rendered himself very interesting, communicating many things pertaining to his life there. Among other things he told us of an Indian Chief who had recently died, and was buried a short distance from there; he said in walking out a few days before he was attracted to the grave by an unusual display of things around it; all the effects of the dead chief were there, including several horses that had been shot and placed around the grave, and an Indian boy, a slave of the chief who was confined to the grave to die and go with his master to another world taking these horses and other property with him for his benefit in the world of spirits; and such was their interpretation that his boy appeared quite reconciled to his fate, believing that it would contribute to his master's comfort.

Having recruited ourselves we went to the Cascade Falls to make arrangements for moving our property down the river. I felt some interest to know something of the Dalles, but as it is some distance from this mission did not visit it. I learned however from Mr. Waller that the peculiarity of this place is that the Columbia River flows in a very rapid current through a narrow channel with rocky banks for a distance of four miles when it again assumes its immense width which it retains until within a short distance of Cascade Falls, where we cross it, where it is again narrow, being not more than one hundred yards across; these rapids below the falls have a descent of forty or fifty feet, in the course of two miles; at the Falls the cataract is about one hundred and twenty feet wide having a fall of about twenty five feet.

We sent our stock across the Cascade Mountains on their way to the Willamette Valley, while we with the rest of our property crossed the river and passing the rapids, encamped and immediately commenced the work of making boats for transportation down the great and long wished for Columbia. Each of us felt that he had accomplished a great undertaking and been exceedingly fortunate in surviving all the perils and exposure to which we had been subjected on our long journey.

Getting everything in readiness we started down the Columbia River, in the water craft we had built. On the way down there were a good many Indian villages to be seen on the shores, besides numerous scattering encampments; these Indians appeared quite friendly and would bring quantities of fish and fowls to trade; of this they seemed to have very good ideas, evincing, at the same time, an equal knowledge of the accomplishment of stealing, this kept us pretty closely engaged with these people for they would all surround us in the most importunate way, all eager to trade and at the same time steal all they could. The men would come often entirely naked, others had a blanket pinned with a stick at the neck, while the females wore a short dress fastened around the waist and extending about half way to the knees. These dressed are made of the bark of the cedar tree, rendered pliable by beating it with sticks, and operation very similar to that of swingling flax; they first make the bandage which goes around the waist, then twist the bow into threads which they double and twist with their fingers into small cords, which are cut to the required length and one end fastened into the belt, while the other hangs loose. The children of both sexes are destitute of clothing until the age of eight or nine years, when the girls are simply clad in one of these primitive dresses.

After a voyage of two or three days we arrived at Fort Vancouver, a Hudson’s Bay Company trading post, where we found a number of Englishmen who were the managers and clerks of the establishment, besides a number of Canadian French, Kanakas, and Indians, servants for the company, who were employed as we were informed, at very low wages, perhaps 5 Sterling per year, and were chiefly engaged in agriculture, the Company having large farms and quite a number of stock of various kinds. These servants raise a great deal of wheat which they convert into flour, having a mill of their own which works admirably and turns out good flour.

It was now just six months since we left that part of the world so dear to us all by every association, and to which we are attached despite our resolutions to settle here, and assist in building up a prosperous and happy country; to which perhaps our friends would come. This reflection seemed to pervade the minds of the entire party, and reconcile them; everyone too seemed pleased with the country, presenting all the requisites of a rich and productive soil; money is rather scarce but with strong hands and stout hearts, what may we not accomplish? There is a great field for industry and with doubtless a happy future before us, we must not hesitate to avail ourselves of its benefits.

At this time in addition to our pecuniary embarrassments, we were all deficient in the necessaries of life, and were at a loss to divine how these wants were to be supplied, without compromising ourselves or rather our pride; but after a consultation among ourselves over our necessitous situation, we concluded to waive all delicacy upon the subject and make known to these traders our needy conditions. Some they were willing to credit for one hundred pounds of flour, but refused this to others; those who could obtain this moiety of flour proceeded on to the towns of Linton and Oregon City, the latter a small American town situated on the Willamette River, containing six small houses and a saw mill, the other town was not considered quite so important. Those who could not obtain provision at Fort Vancouver to enable them to continue their journey were obliged to stay there and work for the Company, at any labor and at any price which they paid in provisions for themselves and families, while those who had arrived at Oregon City were furnished with plenty of wheat and pease by our countrymen living there, who took pleasure in providing us with whatever we wanted, and they could spare, they having been here for a year and some of them for a longer time.

The mills of the Hudson Bay Company were too far to carry our wheat for grinding so we boiled it with the pease, and relished it much more than the reader would suppose; though after a while we obtained flour, molasses and other articles, from the company by furnishing them shingles, for which we received three dollars per thousand. To say the least there was a degree of Illiberality manifested by these traders, which it was very unpleasant for the poor emigrants to encounter, after all the difficulties of reaching the country; but they maintained a fixed determination to remain, and by industry establish themselves comfortable and respectably; so we managed to get along as independently as possible without much intercourse with them, and soon obtained hand mills, that ground or rather cracked our wheat, and did very well; the flour was very course having the bran mixed with it, but this mode of grinding continued with some, for nearly two years.

This valley of the Willamette certainly presents strong inducements to the emigrants, of which they do not hesitate to avail themselves, the government offering to families who will settle and cultivate these beautiful prairies, land a mile square and to single men one-half that extent. The valley is perhaps two hundred miles long, and forty wide, with very little exceptionable land within its limits, being abundantly timbered and watered so all were soon comfortably settled, the land producing all necessary vegetables, while venison could be procured easily and in abundance, and those who had cattle were constantly increasing their stock.

About this time a party of about thirty Indians made a descent on Oregon City, shooting two arrows into the person of a Mr. Thornton, who ran and was met by seven or eight white men who were armed with rifles. The Indians stood their ground and continued to shoot their arrows from behind trees and stumps, though at too great a distance to do any injury until the whites shot their chief, when they asked for peace, which was granted, as it was by no means desirous to have any misunderstanding with Indians who were very numerous here, while there was but a handful of us, scattered in various directions.

Just now I felt a great desire to travel still more, over the beautiful country in this neighborhood and soon found a person who was quite willing to accompany me; so we started out each of us carrying a rifle and ammunition, a blanket and five pounds of flour in the direction of the Santiam a tributary of the Willamette River. We traveled that day and killed some small game for our supper, and next morning some more for breakfast; as may be imagined our cooking was of the simplest order, having no utensils but we were accustomed to dispensing with luxury and fastidiousness and did not mind this now, after finishing our breakfast we set our for another day’s travel, and my companion could hardly be prevailed on not to kill the game by which we were surrounded, though I argued that it was useless as we could not carry any along with us.

After walking on for some distance we came to a large prairie abounding with game, but seeing some Indian horses we had to observe some caution lest we might be discovered by their owners; and as the Indians had only a few days before shown themselves hostile, we kept around the prairie in the brush until we came to a small river which we waded and ascended through thickets as quietly as possible; at times we would hear noises in the brush, which we attributed to deer or bears of which there were indications along this bottom. Following this stream we came to a place where there were unmistakable traces of Indians having crossed; we then waded across the river, though it was very high, reaching to our shoulders and we found it difficult to keep our ammunition and clothing dry. We continued our walk until evening, when we succeeded in killing a bear, and taking as much of the meat as we wanted for supper and breakfast, we selected a spot to camp and began the cooking of our supper in the usual way, by roasting the meat on sticks before the fire; and taking our bread and little cakes after which we retired but found it almost impossible to sleep, from the noise of the wolves, doubtless attracted here by the carcass of the bear we had killed.

Next morning after breakfast we traveled on and found a section of country that presented a beautiful appearance, and many attractions for settlers being prairies of good land, with handsome groves of timber interspersed. Here occasionally we would pass a small cabin that had just been erected by some of our countrymen, who were perhaps permanently settled here, but we did not see many Indians, and those we chanced to meet were to all appearance, quite friendly and we learned that there was a Methodist Mission not far from this place. The whole day was spent in passing through as beautiful a country as any part of the whole world could boast, and I could not but involuntarily say to my companion, “What sacrifices some of our friends are making in not coming to a country where they could have such beautiful and desirable homes”.

That night we encamped where there was abundance of game and in the morning continued our explorations. In the course of a day we met two parties of the emigrants who came out with me who said they had been traveling for a week through the country for the purpose of selecting a place to locate, but that such was the beauty and the attraction of the country everywhere they had been that they were at a loss what point to select. We learned from them that there was a settlement of four or five families, a few miles distant, and after parting with these old friends, we made our way in the direction of these farms at one of which we were very hospitably received by a Frenchman who was the occupant of the house; we remained under his roof comfortably for the night, and in the morning resumed our travels, if possible more pleased with the Country than ever before, trying to reach the saw mill that was situated on the Willamette River, near the Methodist Mission, under the Superintendence of Mr. Campbell; We passed all day through a district upon which nature had been most lavish, the soil being of rich deep, and well situated character, and producing some of the tallest fir timber that I ever beheld, to use the expression of my companion it required “Two looks to enable one to see the tops” of these monster trees. We arrived at the saw mill in the evening where we were entertained until after breakfast next morning, when we set out taking in our course the Methodist Mission; here we met with the Rev. Mr. Campbell, the Superintendent, a very gentlemanly person, who had been at this place, as he told us for four years, preaching and doing all the good in his power to the benighted savages.

During our sojourn here the Indians began to come in to worship, and Mr. Campbell invited us to remain until after the ceremony; thinking we might derive some benefit from the service also, we decided to do so. The Indians continued to flock to the Mission, and after they had congregated they were, to say the least, a rather hard looking set of Christians, coming to church without any very great regard to their appearance other than being painted in a way doubtless very satisfactory to themselves, but to us they looked perfectly hideous. Some of them were entirely without clothing, while more fortunate ones had skins of animals around their shoulders, and a very few had blankets around them, these however, were rare. The women were mostly attired in the primitive dresses I have heretofore described made of cedar bark while the children were perfectly naked. The pastor seemed well pleased with his congregation, who doubtless comprised the aristocracy of the community.

What a contrast between the positions of this poor divine and the pampered ministers of the fashionable churches of our Atlantic cities. Our Indian congregation was seated on the ground, and all hung their heads in a devotional position as if in prayer, the minister then addressed them in their native tongue and they listened with much attention. When he commenced singing, he was joined by the entire assembly old and young, then they all kneeled and offered a prayer through one of their own people who seemed to pray most devoutly; though I could not understand them, their countenances expressed a knowledge of the importance of what they were doing. Indeed such was the devotion which prevailed that it imparted a solemnity to the occasion which quite astonished me besides hearing them sing familiarly the old Methodist hymns we used to hear at home. After they were dismissed by the Minister, I spoke to several of them, having learned enough of their language to say “good day”. They asked us through an interpreter, where we were going; upon our telling them up the Willamette and to the upper Santiam, they advised us not to go unless reinforced with more company as the Indians in that direction were bad, and wild like deer.

The congregation then went to the Village, a short distance off, where we soon afterwards visited them, and found them busily engaged in gambling for blankets and what ever else they had to stake, and we were somewhat surprised to see the very Indian who had prayed so devoutly at the Mission taking the most active part in this playing, which is conducted by taking a small stick, about an inch long, in the hand and throwing it from one hand to the other, then, swinging their arms for perhaps a minute, challenging a guess; in these games fifty or any number of them will be engaged, having an equal number upon either side, who place themselves opposite each other; the party having the stick keeps up a tremendous singing, beating the top of the house with long poles, making a great noise, as the houses are made of boards. As soon as the stick is guessed from the party having it one of the opposite side takes it and pursues the same singing, beating and gyrating as before; this game seemed to be amusing and interesting to them, but to us was a very silly affair.

Leaving here we traveled up the valley in a southerly direction shooting birds enough for our supper and breakfast the next morning. At this stage of our journey we found that it would be necessary to quicken our travel as our flour would not last another day, and it was at least forty miles to the Santiam River; we continued through these beautiful prairies, having no difficulty in procuring meat sufficient for our subsistence, with which and the splendid country we had an opportunity of seeing we were disposed to be content, even without bread, until we arrived at the Santiam, a tributary flowing into the Willamette, on the east side of that river; we forded this stream and continued up the Willamette on day, when we killed a fine elk, and camped for the night. Feeling anxious to see where these prairies terminated, we still traveled up the Willamette Valley, but seeing fresh signs of Indians we changed our course somewhat, taking the direction towards the Upper Santiam then towards the hills, which we traveled across, startling a great many deer and elk. These low hills were covered with splendid grass but destitute of timber, save here and there a few white oak trees that were very low with bushy tops, giving them a beautiful appearance; we encamped here for the night, near a little creek and killing a deer, had a fire built before sunset; but before we commenced cooking we noticed Indians coming towards us, which caused us to think of the advice given us by the friendly ones at the Mission, in regard to these in this region. But there were only three Indians and we intended letting them pass without difficulty, but soon others made their appearance, and we thought best to show ourselves, and thereby ascertain how they would act towards us, so we walked out not more than two hundred yards from them, where they could distinctly see us when they halted and stood for a minute, and then walked back a short distance and called to the others behind, and ran over the ridge; they soon returned accompanied by others, armed with bows and arrows.

Determining not to shoot if we could possibly avoid it, we started for the brush about a hundred yards distant, when the Indians charged after us, with the war whoop bit we reached the thicket and did not fear them, as they did not come nearer than eight steps, but we remembered our promised supper of venison, with regret, knowing they would take possession of our deer. It was now growing dark, and we remained secreted in this thicket until midnight, when we made our way out as noiselessly as possible till we reached the creek, ion which we walked perhaps three hundred yards, as carefully as we could, and then started at a rapid gait across the hills; we noticed on our retreat, fires in the distance in several different places, and supposed the Indians were there. At day, we found ourselves in sight of the Santiam River, but Indian encampments were between us and the river, so we altered our course somewhat, frequently seeing deer, but thinking it advisable not to attempt to secure any meat until farther from the Indians, though we were very hungry. After awhile we reached the river again, when we shot a deer and carried it across a swamp into a large thicket, where we made a very little fire and cooked some meat, taking the rest with us, to avoid being obliged to shoot more, regarding it unsafe to shoot often; we proceeded down the river which had risen considerably from rains on the mountains, besides being very rapid, rendering it entirely impracticable for us to ford it.

We camped this night in a thicket which completely concealed us from view, but first made a fire out in the prairie and cooked some meat, leaving quite a large fire burning while we were secreted three hundred yards distant. Early in the night we saw Indians pass frequently between us and the fire, when, after finding we were not there they kindled the fire; and sat down to laugh and talk for some time, finally leaving in the direction we came, up the river.

In the morning after proceeding down the river some distance we discovered a large band of horses, and supposing there were many Indians near we determined to cross the river and commenced gathering logs and sticks to make a raft, when we saw several Indians approaching us; we did not know that they had seen or heard us, but supposing they had, we left this spot and ran through a swamp which was near, and which was very wet and muddy for a mile or two, and there found some good sticks for making our raft, at which we worked hard, and when completed crossed the river safely on it, determining to go into the country where we could see some white people; but before leaving this shore we cooked the remainder of the deer we killed. By this time it was dark, when we took our course towards the Methodist Mission. All of this country through which we have been traveling for the past three days, is a beautiful prairie country with the land sparsely set with low and large top white oaks which bear acorns profusely, indeed such is the abundance that I have no doubt but that the Indians and bears chiefly subsist upon the products of these trees, and the oak reminded me of the apple trees at home, which produced such pleasurable feelings in juvenile days. In retracing our way to the Mission, notwithstanding we had experienced some disagreeable adventures on this expedition, we could but feel a great admiration for this part of Oregon, and satisfaction that we had abandoned our old homes, for one here, if the country through which we had passed was an index to the rest of this vast territory.

Upon my return to Oregon City, although so much pleased with the country I had visited, I concluded it would be altogether safer, to settle immediately upon the piece of land I had previously selected, and engage in business there, as there was a fair prospect of its becoming of considerable importance. Dr. McLaughlin, a very prominent member of the Hudson Bay Company, seemed to take quite an interest in the prosperity of the place, and they establishing a store among us, gave an impetus to the growth of the town, for soon Dr. McLaughlin erected a flourishing mill and afterwards M. Abernethy built another, during which time the emigrants had located themselves at different points in this beautiful valley, and produced grain, etc., bountifully for the labor bestowed.

About this time a Mr. Pettygrove located himself near the junction of the Willamette and Columbia Rivers, and commenced a settlement by erection of a log house as a store, and laid off a part of his land claim into a town site, which he called Portland; this grew quite rapidly considering the population in the Country at that time comprised principally farmers; yet by the year 1847 there were built at Portland, twelve or fifteen houses, mostly of logs, which were occupied by people variously engaged in and about the town. There was a great scarcity of money, at this time everywhere in the country, and the people were obliged to transact all their business through the merchants at Oregon City and Portland, selling whatever they had to dispose of to these merchants and receiving from them orders payable in goods to those to whom they were indebted. In this way we were enabled to supply the deficiency of money, for anything could be obtained with these orders; they were in fact the circulating currency, based upon the products of the land, principally wheat, which was being raised in considerable quantities by the settlers; the Hudson’s Bay Company store at Oregon City was the principal establishment for trading, inasmuch as they were generally pretty well supplied with those articles most needed, and besides had the immediate facilities for grinding the wheat into flour. This year we had two or three arrivals of vessels in our waters, two of them were from the Sandwich Islands, bringing groceries to us in return for which they would carry away the produce of the Country; the other ship came from the Atlantic coast of our own Country around Cape Horn, with an assorted cargo of merchandise for which she received the same kind of payment.