I left Oregon City in the month of November, 1847, in company with two gentlemen, in a canoe worked by three Indians for the purpose of visiting the country on Puget Sound. After descending the Willamette and Columbia Rivers to the mouth of the latter, we found a trading post known as Fort Astoria, or Fort George; at this place we made but a short stay and, crossing the Columbia, carried our Canoe over a hill about half a mile where we came to a small lake which we crossed in our canoe, finding on this side a narrow outlet which was also shallow, and thickly overhung with brush, rendering it impassible; but being pretty well satisfied that we could get through by this route to Shoal Water Bay, we determined to attempt its navigation; this we found very difficult. The land on either side of this outlet or slough being very low and swampy, we were obliged to remain in the canoe, whilst our three natives stripped themselves and waded through the mud, water and brush, dragging the canoe after them; in doing this they scratched themselves considerably and complained very much, while we in the canoe were not only undergoing the inconvenience, but at the same time having our clothes torn from our bodies. After traveling about three miles this way, which occupied a good part of the day, we reached Shoal water Bay where we found almost any number of sea fowls, of which we killed a sufficiency for our supper and breakfast and camped for the night, pretty well fatigued, not from the length of our journey, but from the dodging and bruising we had undergone, from the brush overhanging and intercepting our way through this place.

We found the bay quite wide and extensive to all appearance, but it being high tide upon our arrival, we found ourselves next morning some distance from the water and knowing the tide was still going out we pushed off from our camp and obliged the Indians to haul us over the flats in the canoe hoping to reach navigable water; but when they had pulled us about the distance of a mile, they were so completely tired out, and as the tide was still receding we saw no prospect of reaching a sufficient depth of water to float our canoe, and determined to remain here and await a returning tide. During this time it rained on us constantly, and I, having been unwell for some days, was attacked with a severe chill and fever, which was very discouraging; when the tide returned we paddled ashore, and my two companions kindly set about fixing a tent of blankets to protect me as much as possible from the rain.

After spending the night most uncomfortably we pushed off our canoe and reached the mouth of the Bay about ten o’clock in the morning, from which point we intended to undertake the hazardous voyage to Puget Sound in our canoe; but the sea seemed so unpropitious that we concluded to prosecute our journey by land, on foot, and there being a good many friendly Indians encamped on the Bay, we found no difficulty in hiring as many as we wished, to carry our effects overland. But we had proceeded but a short distance when I found it impossible to continue the journey from my feeble condition and called to my companions who were in advance. As they could not hear me I was compelled to lie down in the grass; they soon returned, and proposed carrying me which they did for two or three hundred yards, when I insisted, that they should let me return to the Indian encampment, while they should continue their journey. This they refused to do and expressed their willingness to take me back to the settlement, but I objected to this kind offer, and finally persuading them that I could remain in safety with the Indians, they divided with me their store of hard bread and potatoes, and we separated.

I secreted my provisions with my blankets and with considerable difficulty made my way to the Indians, sending one with directions to find them, and looking around for the most comfortable quarters; the chief’s house looking somewhat better than the rest of them, I entered it and found his wife and others but himself absent. Being quite exhausted I stretched myself down by the fire without ceremony, and paid little attention to the loquacity of the chief’s wife who seemed desirous that I should talk; becoming displeased at my inability to talk with her she sent one of her slaves out and had a fire built very near the surf, and a mat placed for me to lie on, and informed me that I must go there, in the rain. I expostulated and expressed my determination to remain under the roof of her house, telling her as best I could of my condition, but she seemed determined to have me removed, and finding her unable to accomplish it, sent for the chief who peremptorily ordered me to leave the house, which I refused to do. He then left the house and was absent but a short time, when he returned with five men most hideously painted and armed with knives; these stood around me and the Chief pointed to the door and said something in his own language, which I did not understand, still I deemed the intimations strong enough to warrant the belief that if I did not leave they would eject me forcibly, so I crawled to the little fire they had prepared for me, and laid there without covering with the rain and surf falling on me until the Indian returned with my provision and blankets, when I determined to make another attempt to procure shelter, and with some assistance again reached the Chief’s house, and asked permission to remain all night, for which privilege I offered half my provision. To this they consented on condition that I should leave early next morning and I passed the night rather comfortably.

Awaking early I remembered the terms of the Chief and my heart grew sick at the thought of again venturing into the rain which fell with unabated violence, and I proposed to give one-half the food that remained, if they would allow me to stay during the day, which left me but little; he assented to this also and I then bargained with him to take me back to the mouth of the Columbia River next morning, after which he appeared quite civil, offering me part of whatever he had to eat during the day.

A large canoe came in sight at sea which created quite a commotion among the Indians, as they apprehended it might be an enemy. The chief ordered his men to hold themselves in readiness, and they placed their guns, spears and clubs near, should occasion require them; but when the canoe came nearer the chief hailed them and they replied that they were friends and at their landing were received with many demonstrations of friendship.

It was evident that I at once became the subject of conversation and I thought I could discern an indifference in the manner of my host, after the arrival of these people ominous of a disinclination to adhere to his promise of taking me over the Columbia river in the morning. I recollected a conversation this old chief had with me in relation to a mill he had seen somewhere, and his expressed desire that some one would come and build one of the same sort in his country; this I proposed doing, provided he would comply with his promise to convey me to Astoria in the morning. The proposition seemed to please him very much, but he said I must in addition give him a blanket, which I very readily consented to do, when he immediately commenced preparations for the trip, in the meanwhile naming many things which he wanted, and must have in case he went with me; as may be supposed I promised any and everything required by this unscrupulous and exacting old scamp, trusting to Providence that I might escape their payment. This is quite contradictory of the reputed hospitality of an Indian’s character but it is about a true exemplification of all it has been my fortune to meet; they will exact from one most unmercifully when in their power and only spare life, that they may extort more.

About the middle of the day we started in a small canoe soon after which I had another chill; after we had gone about ten miles a halt was ordered by the chief who inquired if I was married? I told him I was not so fortunate, when he informed me that he had a fine daughter whom he wished me to marry, and build the mill we proposed, and that he would furnish five men to assist in its erection. Being anxious to facilitate our journey I told him I would agree to all he proposed with the hope that he would at once proceed, but to my surprise he then proposed returning that I might have an opportunity of seeing his daughter, to this I objected begging him to go on as his description of her was quite satisfactory and I would soon return and consummate all he desired. Finally he concluded to proceed and we camped that night on the way, reaching Astoria during the next day and finding quite a number of people, among them the crew of the ill fated man of war “Shark” that had been wrecked a short time previous at the mouth of the Columbia. I here placed myself under the care of a physician and was treated very kindly, so that after eight or ten days I had sufficiently recovered to renew my visit to the Puget Sound Country.

Accompanied by two gentlemen whose destination was in the same direction, we took passage in a canoe and proceeded to the mouth of the Cowlitz River which we ascended to a French settlement, where we were very kindly treated and received from the settlers all the information they possessed relative to our route over to the head waters of Puget Sound. We left this settlement in the morning and pursued our journey through a country that seemed fertile and productive, but a great disparagement to everything along the way at this season of the year was the weather, which was truly bad, yet we traveled in the direction of the Chehalis River which after some detention we reached and crossed with some difficulty. We followed the course of the river down, through an extensive bottom, until we reached a stream where the current was so rapid that we were considerably delayed in crossing; here a fine open country presented itself abounding in good prairie land well adapted to agricultural purposes.

Finding the walking much better here we continued at a pretty good rate through an almost continuous prairie country for perhaps forty miles to the head of Puget Sound. Here we found five American families, some of whom had taken land claims in the neighborhood but variously occupied, the conditions of the people requiring them to seek employment from the trading post of the Hudson Bay Company, situated near the Nisqually River under the management of Dr. Tolmie, who was called the chief factor of the Establishment. He gave us employment in many instances in making shingles at the head of the Sound, from which point they were transported by water to Nisqually where we received in return various articles of provision and comfort. Here the conditions of all seemed to be improving, the people being generally satisfied and firm in the determination that this part of the territory should be their future homes.

In the year 1848 a saw mill was erected through the combined efforts of the settlers, and put in successful operation upon the Tum Water, this stream or rather Falls being the best site, perhaps in the territory having a sufficiency of water with a fall unsurpassed anywhere besides the advantage of its situation just at the head of Puget Sound, an inland sea capacious enough to accommodate the largest fleet of vessels that might visit it. At this point was the first enterprise commenced in this part of the territory and it was quite profitable to those engaged in it; then there were one or two vessels trading to this locality which enabled us to obtain all the various articles so necessary in the settlement of a new country and under these auspices the pioneers were satisfied.

Just at this time when everything seemed propitious we received the sad intelligence of the murder of Dr. Whitman and a part of his family by Indians; this family was residing on the Columbia River above the Dalles, at a mission known as Whitman’s Mission. In addition to the murders committed on this occasion, they carried away a number of prisoners, among whom were several young ladies and children who had been placed at the Mission to be educated by the Doctor. This news was soon circulated throughout the entire country and excited the greatest alarm, for the Indians who had heretofore been friendly were sufficiently numerous everywhere to exterminate the whites, who were in a state of constant alarm for their lives. War now having begun by the Indians, a call was made for volunteers to assemble at Portland for organization, which was responded to most cheerfully by all who could possibly leave their homes and who were soon organized into companies taking the field in the prosecution in this war; and though poorly fitted out in every respect for an expedition of this kind, they went forth to avenge the wrongs perpetrated by these Indians with all the cheerfulness of people sanguine of the best results from a full consciousness of doing right.

They did several months service during which they accomplished a good deal, by giving the Indians to understand in unmistakable terms, that the whites would not be imposed on by them, notwithstanding their inferiority. But just at this time these difficulties had an unhappy effect otherwise; the people were called off from their various occupations at a time when it was necessary for their individual prosperity as well as that of the country, that they should be pursuing their various vocations; but soon the condition of things resumed a quiet and prosperous appearance, and every branch of the industry which had been commenced previous to the excitement was again flourishing. In the southern portion of the territory, the country was acquiring quite a settled and civilized appearance, and even in the northern part, the few pioneers who had settled themselves at the head of Puget Sound, were making rapid advances. These seemed to regard their portion of the territory as possessing very great advantages over the rest of the country, for in addition to the immense tracts of rich arable land contiguous to the waters of the Sound, they were favored with almost inexhaustible forests of as rich timber as any part of the world could boast, perfectly accessible at all seasons of the year, to ships of the largest tonnage. These advantages impressed themselves upon the consideration of these first settlers, many of whom are still living there, to witness a realization of their belief in the large number of ships that are now constantly arriving and departing heavily laden.

In the fall of 1848 the news of the discoveries of gold in California reached the territory and created considerable excitement among the settlers, many of whom immediately made arrangements for visiting that part of the coast, and twenty wagons accompanied by about twenty-five men, among them myself, left Oregon City for the famous land of gold. Our course was up the Willamette for perhaps a hundred and twenty-five miles, through a magnificent country where we constantly met Indians who seemed friendly.

Changing our course the Indians began hostile demonstrations by stealing some of our horses, and shooting at the men, besides shooting arrows into our cattle. One morning a small detachment of our party pursued the thieves, but the trail being a difficult one to travel they effected their escape and our men joined the train again, when we proceeded until about sunset and camped at good grass and water.

Soon after encamping we discovered on the top of a mountain near, a party of Indians whom we supposed to be spies; a guard was detailed and we retired, passing the night quietly until just before daylight, when we were aroused by the report of a rifle from one of our sentinels, accompanied with the cry of “Indians”! Indians! Immediately every man seized his rifle, and inquiring into the matter we learned that an Indian had been detected crawling upon his hands and knees in the direction of our horses, when the sentinel fired and the Indian ran, making good his escape to a party of his comrades who signified his arrival by a long continued whoop, not far from our camp. As soon as it became light enough we saw that our enemy had withdrawn some distance and while we were making some plans for attacking them a dissatisfaction sprang up in the company and five wagons drove off, leaving only twenty in the main train. During the day we saw Indians during our travel watching our movements from the neighboring hills and at night we encamped on a river, about a mile behind the wagons which had left us.

Here there were numerous indications of deer, and three of us went out in quest of them, each taking different directions. I went up the river cautiously looking not only for deer, but Indians also, knowing if the latter had the advantage of the first sight, they might convert me into game. After hunting about an hour I sat down to rest and in a short time heard something in the brush so I changed my position to a small ravine, where I still heard the noise; finally I discovered a dog and an Indian’s head in the weeds near, at which I fired and the dog ran off leaving his master kicking on the ground; upon examination I found that I had shot him just where I intended, which was doubtless a fortunate thing for me, as he would have killed me, had I not been a little too fast for him, for he was well armed with bow and arrows. Taking a lock of his hair I hurriedly returned to camp, thinking there might be a number of them near, and my companions in camp were very well satisfied with my substitute for a deer.

Although we had guards stationed we heard nothing of the Indians during the night, but about daylight heard the report of a gun at the camp of our friends in advance, and by the time we could yoke our teams to go to their assistance the firing was almost incessant. We hurried on as rapidly as possible, and found the enemy retreating, and none of our friends injured, although they thought that they had killed three or four and wounded a number of the natives; they had all retreated to the hilltops, except one who took a position about four hundred yards distant on the other side of the river, behind a large pine tree. Some of the company continued firing at him, probably to frighten him, surely not thinking to effect anything more at that distance, and this Indian’s boldness prompted us all to take a shot at him, for he challenged it by stepping out as soon as any one would shoot, and then again taking his position behind his protection. All had shot, with the exception of two or three, among whom was a Dutchman who had an old “yager”, with which he said he would show us how the Dutch shot at enemies, though none of us supposed he could reach him. But when next the Indian appeared the Dutchman, taking deliberate aim, fired, and he fell, the old man addressing us in very exultant broken English with “Dat ish de way de Dutch fights”.

That day our five seceding wagons kept in company with the others and after a quiet night we resumed our journey in sight of a large lake, while ponds of salaratus presented the appearance of snow, in the distance; these so-called ponds are deposits of salaratus, sometimes several acres in extent, and from one inch to half an inch in thickness. As we approached the large lake on a high ridge which afforded us a very extensive view, we could not but admire the magnificence of the scene; it was one of enchantment which all seemed to appreciate; the lake for miles was surrounded by a prolific growth of rushes and while we were admiring the scene all around our attention was attracted to a smoke some distance off in the immense field of rushes which we thought an indication of Indians thereabouts and in a few minutes ten or fifteen other smokes began to ascend which seemed like signals for communication. We camped at this lake for the night, grazing our cattle then securing them in a circle of the wagons and detailing a double guard for the night. Everything remained quiet until the second watch when we were alarmed by one of our guards shooting at an Indian as he supposed, in consequence of which we were all deprived of our night’s sleep, expecting an attack every moment and preparing our arms for immediate use, as we could distinctly hear them around.

Much to our gratification not an Indian was near at daylight, and leaving the two in the distance unmolested we drove on, encamping in the evening at the foot of a mountain of considerable height, where there was a beautiful spring of water, and abundance of grass, and passed the night without disturbance. In the morning it was agreed by the majority of the company that we should stay here a day and recruit our animals, and all remained except the five wagons that seemed indisposed to comply with any agreement of the company, which drove off. We spent the day most agreeably, climbing to the top of the peak, where we were richly repaid by a full view of the beautiful and extensive valley of the Klamath embracing the lake of the same name and the surrounding country.

In the afternoon I concluded as there was every indication of deer, that I would go in search of them and proceeded around the base of the mountain, climbing over the rocks, expecting to find mountain sheep, until I found that in my anxiety for game I had traveled much farther from camp than I intended, and finding fresh traces of Indians I felt the necessity of returning to camp as soon as possible as the sun was very low, and paying no attention to game of any kind, reached my companions before night.

Next morning we started early, determined if possible to reach the Klamath Valley by evening, and in our travels this day we got in advance of the five wagons which had left us. Our route was through a beautiful plain, interspersed with many of the salaratus ponds peculiar to this country which gave quite an imposing relief to the open plain; we saw also a large Ibex, the first I ever saw, between the sizes of an elk and mountain goat, with very large horns, but it ran as soon as it discovered us, and we did not pursue him.

We reached the Klamath River and encamped for the night, but the five wagons did not come up; next morning we set out for the natural bridge on the Klamath River which is not far from the great lake that receives the waters of this river; this lake is the reservoir of great quantities of water, with no apparent outlet. We reached the natural bridge which was a great rock completely submerged in the water but affording a passage over the river, as the top was covered only to the depth of two feet, but we sounded on each side, and found it very deep; whether there was an arch formed underneath this bridge we had no means of ascertaining, but presumed there was. We then drove near the lake and camped still having no tidings of the five wagons behind.

In the morning the natives commenced telegraphing each other by means of the smokes before alluded to, and in a very short time we perceived quite a large party of them coming towards us, so we began yoking our teams fast as possible; but finding them approaching us to rapidly another man and myself went to meet them and if possible prevent their advance; when they saw us on the opposite side of the river; they began yelling and making all kinds of noises, and pointing to their bows; here we found there were canoes in the river and deemed it prudent to fall back, beyond reach of their arrows. In the meantime the train had started and we were called to join them, but seeing the Indians were intent upon driving us off, we concluded to give them a few shots before we left, although the party presented rather a formidable appearance, advancing in double file, all armed and decorated in the most hideous way imaginable; some had the horns of animals fastened on their heads, others were fantastically decorated with feathers, while others were ornamented with rushes so arranged that they seemed to be carrying brush heaps on their heads, besides being otherwise ludicrously fixed off, doubtless for battle.

We commenced the attack, although too far off to do them much harm, which they returned with their arrows, neither side accomplishing anything, here we looked around for the wagons and found two detachments of the enemy endeavoring to cut us off from the train; so it was evident our safety depended on flight, and we succeeded in getting next to the wagons, and from actual exhaustion threw ourselves into a low piece of ground. The Indians pursued us within two hundred yards, with a shower of arrows, without effect, but when we found they had advanced near enough my companion selected a man from the right of the column and I one from the left, and firing simultaneously two of them fell, the others continuing the fire with renewed vigor but halting about a hundred yards distant. We could see the arrows coming, and though they fell in numbers all around, we were enabled to escape them, and still occupied our position, intending to shoot again, until they made a charge before which we retreated in the direction of our wagons and were met by the teamsters; the Indians seeing that we were reinforced, retreated.

After quietude was restored, and we were talking over the excitement of the morning, a circumstance was observed which produced considerable merriment in the company; in the skirt of my companion’s coat, an Indian arrow was sticking which some of them contended he must have received while his face was not to the enemy, and this may have been the case, as we were obliged to act the cowards more than once, that morning, however we all enjoyed a hearty laugh at his expense in which he joined.

The five wagons with which we had parted some days ago, had it seems encamped but a short distance from us that night near enough to know we had some difficulty with the Indians, and urged their teams forward to avoid encountering them alone; the Indians however crossed the river and took a position on the opposite side and as the road the wagons were obliged to travel was immediately on the bank of the stream, it placed them in a very exposed situation for an attack; this was commenced by the Indians very vigorously with bows and arrows, and two men (all that could be spared from the wagons) took a position between their wagons and the enemy, the latter about seventy in number. One of these gentlemen, Mr. Payne, was wounded by an arrow which lodged between the bones of his wrist, of which he relieved himself by pulling it through; the other gentleman was unharmed but a number of oxen in their train were pierced by arrows. In this affair four Indians were seen to fall by the rifles of these two gentlemen.

Upon hearing the report of the guns we supposed our friends had been attacked and all who could leave went to their assistance finding them out of reach of the Indians and endeavoring to join our wagons.

We drove about ten miles that day, and encamped early to have ourselves and animals in as good condition as possible by next day for after leaving this place we would be obliged to drive a distance of seventy miles without finding either grass or water.

In the morning we started from this place called Goose Lake, proceeding through a broken country, interspersed with low hills with scarce vegetation, and here and there a low scrubby tree; the whole face of the country presenting a barren and sterile appearance, night approached, but we drove on, finding ourselves in the morning in the vicinity of timber; here the sugar pine grew in abundance, from which we obtained a considerable quantity of sugar, finding it sticking to the trees in quantities as large as hickory nuts and as white as the purest loaf sugar; it was slightly tinged with the flavor of pine yet not disagreeable to the taste.

We did not know haw far we had traveled from our last encampment but were getting anxious to find some point where we could obtain grass and water for our jaded animals, and rest for ourselves, and driving until about twelve o’clock we found water and turned our cattle loose to feed and water; these were the head waters of Pitt River. During our sojourn here we amused ourselves obtaining sugar from the pine trees and in the morning we made a short drive down the Pitt River. In this vicinity we saw an occasional oak tree and a number of tracks of grizzly bear, as well as numerous deep holes dug by the Indians for securing them. This is done by placing a covering of grass over the holes, completely concealing them from view, and then by some strategy inducing the bear, elk and other animals to walk or jump into the pit.

Next morning we left this place and much to our surprise, soon came to a plain wagon road, which we supposed was the California emigrant route from the Plains; it seemed to have been traveled not more than two weeks previous, and we were much pleased at our good fortune, inasmuch as we had done our share of road-making on this journey. We traveled one day on this new road, when we felt convinced that it did not lead in the direction we wished to travel, so we camped for the night to determine whether we would go in the direction our route seemed to indicate or continue upon the traveled road; finally it was decided by a vote of the company, that we should adhere to the beaten track; here we could see Indians eyeing us at a respectful distance, but none came near us.

In the morning we left this camp in good spirits, as our journey was now over a well defined road, which was quite a relief from traveling over an unbroken route as we had done almost the entire distance, from Oregon. This day we passed through some of the tallest of timber, where there were indications of game of various kinds, and in the evening camped on a very handsome little prairie surrounded by timber, it was thought three hundred feet in height. Next morning we resumed our journey and commenced the ascent of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, which were here covered with a fine growth of timber; we traveled in these mountains three days, when we began to descend on the waters of Feather River. Continuing our course down this river for three days more we overtook a party of emigrants having twenty-five wagons; they said that they had evidently been misled and then abandoned by their guide; that they were destitute of provisions and had been forced to kill cattle that were in such a wretched condition as to cause considerable sickness among them. Our company was fortunately supplied with a superabundance of provisions for the journey, and we took great pleasure in sharing with these hungry travelers many of whom were women and children.

The situation of these people was truly deplorable when we found them, the children actually crying for bread, while in the entire company there was nothing to appease their hunger, and I think I never felt happier than just here, to have it in my power to contribute even in a limited way, to the wants of these destitute people. They were completely bewildered, being shut out from the world as it were in the midst of these mountains, to proceed seemed impossible, having no road and the mountains so heavily timbered that it was apparently impracticable for them to undertake to make a road, in their destitute situation, while to return on the road they came several hundred miles, would be ultimate starvation.

We remained with them for two days and then commenced exploring the mountains, to see if a road could be made; after being out for two days the party returned to camp reporting favorably, when ten men started ahead to open a road the whole train following after. We traveled on slowly in this way for five or six days when we came to a canyon of immense depth, having perpendicular sides of solid rock, with quite a large stream roaring and rushing over the rocks in the bottom; we followed along this canyon for two days, and then left it, passing over some rough country and experiencing some difficulty for several days, when we struck the beautiful valley of the Sacramento, with its Oak groves skirting the rivers, here we could see the well beaten trail of the grizzly bears leading to these oaks, which seemed to indicate that they visited them pretty regularly for their acorns.

The next day our journey continued through the valley in the direction of Feather River, and in the evening we came to a large ranch kept by one of our countrymen and his wife, who were well satisfied, and appeared to be doing well. His house was built after the Spanish style of adobes, or sun dried brick, his yard and corrals being enclosed with the same material; he informed us that the oak timber thereabouts was not adapted for building purposes. His farm was enclosed by a ditch four feet wide and as many deep which he said was sufficient to exclude from his fields the cattle everywhere to be seen around him as also bands of horses; he very kindly slaughtered a beef and presented it to us treating us with much consideration otherwise and giving us directions to the Feather River mines. We bade adieu to this hospitable gentleman and his excellent lady, and continued our course towards Feather River where we encamped in the evening after a pleasant day’s journey through this beautiful valley.

Here we found some very friendly Indians, occupying several huts formed by digging holes in the ground and using the earth thrown out to cover saplings arranged in a pointed roof.

On the evening of the second day after this we camped in the mining district we were so eager to reach, and next morning a number of us walked over to the diggings, where we found every man hard at work washing out the dirt with pans and rockers; they told us they were making from sixteen to thirty dollars, each per day, and although this sounded pretty well it did not reach our extravagant expectations and we concluded to drive on to the Yuba River where there were reported very rich mines; but upon our arrival here we found the miners were doing no better than those on the Feather River.

Being now flushed with the expectation of attaining fortunes here in California, we imagined it could not be done other than by traveling around until we came to a place beyond a doubt. This seemed to be the predominant feeling of the company, and actuated thus we left this part of the mines pushing on to an unknown destination. We went to Sutters Fort and made the acquaintance of Captain Sutter, a gentlemanly personage of familiar and easy manners, and with whom we were all pleased. His fortifications were built of adobes, as were also eight or ten houses inside, where this gentleman lived and transacted some mercantile business. We remained at the Fort a day, laying in some fresh supply of provisions, and advised with the Captain in relation to our future course; he thought it best for us to proceed to the dry diggings on the south side of the American River, and next morning we left the Fort expecting to make our fortunes.

After two days travel we reached the diggings and found many persons engaged in building houses to live in; our party, after looking around and conversing with the miners, determined to remain at this locality. Some of them dispersing in various directions prospecting. I was fortunate enough to find in my explorations several small pieces of gold still I thought there was a richer part of the country that I might reach if I kept on although the miners here were realizing from sixteen to fifty dollars per day, to the hand. Here I sold my wagon and one yoke of oxen to enable me to obtain provisions enough to last me to the Eldorado of my expectations, paying one dollar and thirty-five cents per pound for pickled pork, thirty-five cents per pound for flour, one dollar per pound for sugar and a dollar and a half per pound for coffee.

I met two persons who were desirous of going to the middle fork of the American River, and it was decided that I should travel in that direction with them; we each purchased a little pony at this place, upon which we packed our effects, and started soon getting in company with two Spaniards who were familiar with the country through which we had to gravel. We all journeyed on together very agreeably until the second day, when we arrived at the summit of a mountain commanding a view of the place of our destination. It looked like rather a serious undertaking to go down this mountain with our horses, particularly with their packs, so we suggested to our Spanish friends, that they would lead the way, which cleared a trail for our descent. Every log or rock with which they came in contact rolled to the bottom, and one of the mules belonging to one of them in his efforts to get over a large rock, loosened it, precipitating both the rock and himself down the mountain for perhaps a thousand feet; we reached the bottom in safety and found the unfortunate mule dead, with the saddle and part of his load still attached to him.

The miners here told us they were not realizing much gold from their labor, but we determined to try our luck for a few days at all events. The first day we did admirably and concluded to fix for working to better advantage by making a rocker, etc., and resumed our work, making about fifty dollars to the man each day. About this time a Spaniard was caught stealing a purse of gold, upon which all the miners collected and placing a rope around his neck, drew it over the limb of a tree, and each pulling with a hearty good will suspended him there until dead when they dispersed fully convinced that they had but done their duty as good citizens here; this summary justice was the law which all seemed interested in executing, when occasion demanded; in fact such proceedings were actually necessary at a period when no other law existed in these mountainous regions.

My two companions suggested about this time that I should look around for better diggings. I followed the river up one day examining several places and found that the indications were good; in the evening I met with four gentlemen who crossed the plains in company with me, in the year 1845; of course we were pleased at this unexpected meeting and I at hearing they were doing well, and making from thirty to a hundred dollars daily, for I felt interested in the welfare of all who traveled with me on that memorable occasion. I spread my blankets with these old acquaintances and remained until morning when I returned to my two men and informed them how well my old friends were doing up the river, where I had seen them, when it was agreed that we should immediately proceed there.

Our mining in this new field progressed very well, when one day the purse containing all the gold my two partners and myself had accumulated, nearly one thousand dollars, was stolen from our tent, a few feet distant from which we were at work. The news of this robbery was circulated and a man whom we suspected apprehended. He was searched and threatened with hanging, but denied all knowledge of the money; a vote was then taken which resulted in two-thirds of the company or court being in favor of hanging him; but we three who had lost the told interceded in behalf of the prisoner, of whose guilt we were not positive, though nearly so, and he was finally untied and informed that he must leave in five minutes with the penalty of being hung, if ever found there again.

At this place four men had by hard work turned off a part of the river and on the evening of the first day I had the curiosity to see what they were doing, and found that from their first day’s labor they had two pint cups full of gold dust. Communicating this to my partners we determined on draining the river, in the hope of being equally successful; we therefore commenced work the next day and working for two days had nearly effected our purpose with a good prospect of its completion on next day, when a hard rain during the night caused the river to overflow our dam and wash it away. This discouraged my partners, who expressed their unwillingness to expend any more labor in the uncertain business of draining but I was impressed with the belief that, under the waters of the river, paying quantities of gold could be obtained; so by mutual consent I withdrew from my partners for a few days to see if I could find parties who might be disposed to engage in this project with me.

I found a company who entertained my views favorably and were willing to undertake it at the point I designated, with the understanding that all the gold that could be found as they increased the dam, belonged to them and all remaining in the bottom of the river bed was mine. The work commenced and as they turned the water I began the work of washing the dirt, which remunerated me well; for the first day I was thus engaged I realized on hundred and fifty dollars for my work, and the second day at the same place I obtained from about the same amount of labor five hundred and twenty dollars. The men who were doing the work of draining were not finding much gold other than the little that was visible upon the surface, yet they firmly believed that ultimately they would be richly repaid for the labor bestowed, the indications were so flattering.

During the day a leak was discovered underneath a large stone that the dam was built upon where the water forced itself in a stream about the size of a man’s thumb, full of fine particles of gold; this produced quite a sensation among us; the men succeeding in stopping this leak and then laid down on the bank of the river to guard their valuable claim against intrusion through the night but just before daylight it was discovered that the river had risen so high as to have swept the dam away again. This was very discouraging and in addition the rains commenced and the river continued to rise, so that we thought that it would be entirely impracticable to undertake the work again before Spring; so I returned to my partners and made preparations for the winter quarters, taking into our cabin four others, making a family of seven, which we deemed sufficient to protect us against any incursions of robbers or murderers so numerous now in the mines.

Our location being at a canyon of the river now, we went to work and did exceedingly well. In my prospecting around here, I found rich diggings of coarse gold; this prompted us to hire one of the men who were living with us and pay him high wages, pledging him to secrecy. Finding ourselves frequently inquired of by passing miners as to how we were doing, and being obliged to answer evasively lest they might conclude to stop with us, and having more rich diggings than we could hold, we determined to tell our roommates of our discoveries; so we told them they could most probably made a hundred dollars a day at the place referred to; when one of them laughed very significantly and replied that they were doing better than that where they were; this surprised us a little, but we were pleased to hear it as they were clever fellows.

It now quite hard and even the whole surface of the ground was covered with a heavy snow. We were told of a number of persons who were encamped on the mountains when it snowed, who owing to the scarcity of fire wood, left their encampment in the endeavor to get down, but the snow was so deep that they probably perished with the exception of two who reached some miners quarters in the neighborhood; parties went out in search of them but none could be found.

We continued mining in this locality doing exceedingly well for three months, when my partners left for Oregon, leaving me to continue mining alone which I did quite successfully, until I was taken sick and left for Sutter’s Mill. I found an old acquaintance, with his family, who had crossed the plains with me, who was engaged in keeping a boarding house and grocery; they were charging, in a little log hut, eight dollars per day, board, or three dollars for such meals as they had to transient customers, eight dollars for a bottle of whiskey and for other things similar prices. I laid in this cabin on a dirt floor, sick for six week, and when I could walk about a little and asked “mine host” for my bill, he told me it was eight dollars for each day that I had been in his house. This I considered high, under the circumstances but paid it. I then asked what my doctor’s bill amounted to, and was told that it was one ounce for every visit, about seventeen dollars; this doctor lived about two hundred yards from the place I was domiciled, and his visits were daily for the time I was sick. I told him I thought I could dispense with his attentions, as I was better though still sick. These two bills amounting to so much for the time I had been there, caused me to reflect a little, which resulted in the conviction that I must leave “those diggings”.

Accordingly I set about making arrangements for another start. In the first instance purchasing two indifferent horses for the sum of five hundred and fifty dollars; which I was informed was a great bargain. I began packing one of the animals which I designated for the purpose reserving the other to ride, when my landlord told me that at a certain place in the road I proposed traveling, three persons had been robbed, and murdered. This information induced me to purchase a brace of Colt's revolvers, for which I paid a very extravagant price, before starting on my journey toward the Valley, though I was urged not to venture alone. On the second day I reached the place of which I had been apprised and was keeping a sharp lookout on either side when I perceived two men with rifles, approaching me from the brush; I felt that my safety depended on deception, and as persons just arriving in the mines were not supposed to have any money, I determined to play the part of a novice in these parts; so calling them very innocently and at the same time beckoning them, they came to me; I then asked them, pointing in the direction I came whether that was not the way to the mines I was traveling to, they said it was not, and asked where I was from and where going, to which I replied as would a person just arrived in the diggings; they looked at each other significantly and then gave me the directions of the route I had to travel; thanking them politely and bidding them good morning I rode off and soon saw them return to the bushes. I felt that I had made a lucky escape as doubtless these were some of the villains who infested these thickets with a hope of Plunder, and only permitted me to pass with the impression I had no money.

That night I reached Leadsdolph’s ranche, where I got supper, breakfast and food for my two horses for twelve dollars, and then traveled on from one ranche to another until I came to one where there were cattle for sale. I purchased one thousand dollars’ worth paying five hundred dollars of the money and leaving my two horses until the payment of the remainder. I then employed an Indian to go with me and assist in driving my cattle.

This new acquaintance informed me that his kinsmen were going to kill me. This was not a very agreeable piece of intelligence, yet I assumed to attach no importance to it, and we traveled on for sometime; my Indian asking several times if what he had told me did not frighten me. I said “No,” although I must confess it made some impression on my mind. Upon our reaching the top of a hill or mountain, at full speed my Indian deserted me and joined five others that I could see. Fortunately there was a large rock near, behind which I took refuge, and with my double-barreled gun and revolver,felt pretty well fortified against the attack of these Indians, which they had begun in earnest; so fast did they send their arrows around the rock that for a while it was impossible for me to raise my head to give them a shot in return;after a time they rather slackened their firing, and I supposed their arrows were nearly exhausted, so I arose and just at the time I saw the fellow I had employed shoot an arrow at me, I took aim at him and he fell. The Indians all this time being under cover of rocks and logs and having such an advantage in numbers, placed me in rather an awkward situation and I had no opportunity to shoot, as I was no sooner up than I would be obliged to dodge. Finally I got another shot at a head fairly exposed, when a whoop was given and they all fled except the two I had shot; but thinking I would impress them with the belief that I was well armed, I gave them another shot from one of my revolvers as they went; and then, without waiting to ascertain the condition of the two I had shot, I started as fast as my weak state would permit, not having recovered from my illness, in the direction of a public house on the road, but after running for sometime fell from exhaustion.

After resting sufficiently to proceed I reached the house where I found quite a number of persons some of them about drunk. Telling them of the circumstance and treating the party, ten of them volunteered to proceed with me to the place of encounter and assist me in recovering my cattle. The entire party being mounted I obtained a horse for the occasion and soon reached the place. There was blood, in all probability that of the two Indians I had shot, but their bodies were nowhere to be found; they had crawled off wounded or been taken away by their friends. I was fortunate enough to recover all my cattle that had strayed off and drove them to the hotel where I purchased the horse I rode. There was a party of twelve men who volunteered in the morning to find and punish the Indians, and though I declined going, they went, while I continued my journey with my cattle toward Coloma, or Sutter’s Mill, which place I reached after two days travel and learned too that they had a battle with the Indians, the day before my arrival in which twenty-five whites and fifty Indians were engaged, and the Indians repulsed with many killed and wounded.

Finding no sale for my cattle at this place I left in the morning for Kelsey’s dry diggings, which I reached in the evening and found rather a rough looking community, principally Spaniards and half-breed Indians. Here I sold my cattle with a handsome profit. I was asked in the course of the evening by two half-breeds which way I was going when I left there, I told them and they said they were going to the Middle Fork of the river. In the morning they had their horses in readiness for a start with me, but I concluded not to start just then, particularly as I was aware that they had seen me receive three thousand dollars at this place; they then expressed their determination to not start until the next day, so I was pretty well satisfied that they designed robbing me.

I passed the evening here as well as I could, feeling, however, some uneasiness in the company by whom I was surrounded. Among them were some young Spanish ladies, who wished me to engage in a small game of monte, which I declined respectfully, assuring them that I did not understand it; all parties were engaged in this game until the night was half spent, when I expressed a desire to retire; they showed me a bunk where I was to spend the night, of which I took possession without undressing, with my pistols convenient and money well secured about my person. Soon the two half-breeds I alluded to came in the same room and spread their blankets on the floor, so I staid awake the entire night lest they might take advantage of my sleeping.

In the morning I found my horse, which was turned out to feed the evening before, and made preparations for starting, but seeing my two roommates were getting their horses in readiness too, I inquired of them which way they were going, they said to “the Middle Ford” so I concluded to tarry, and let them start before me, but discovering that they were waiting for me I told them it would be out of my power to travel in company with them, as I would be obliged to remain here until a friend arrived who was to accompany me in my travels to the river; however they remained with me until the middle of the day, and then left.

There was a high Butte near the house, from which summit we could have full view of the road I purposed traveling and the fork leading in another direction; & I ascended this, and saw that instead of taking the middle fork as they said they would, they took the Coloma road, the one they understood I was to go. Seeing this I hurried back to the house, and bidding them adieu sprang on my horse and galloped off; arriving at the forks of the road, I took the middle one, contrary to my previous intentions, and running my horse about five miles, came to the main road, that was traveled a great deal, but from the route I had been forced to take, I had been obliged to travel at least fifteen miles farther, to reach it. This was the direct road to Coloma, my destination. Just before sunset I was descending the Mountain to Coloma, where I was frequently passing persons on the road, when I overtook these two villains who had doubtless been waiting back on the road for me, and given me up.

In Coloma I met with company going to Sacramento City, which was just laid out and contained but two houses, which were built for storehouses. On my arrival at Leadolph’s Ranche, I parted with my company, and went on to the place where I had left my two horses until the payment for the cattle, which I redeemed, and started with them toward Sacramento City. On the way I traded my horses for an ox team and wagon, and commenced the business of transporting merchandise from Sacramento City to Coloma, and at this place, purchasing another wagon and team, I was prepared to do considerable business in this lien. I received forty dollars per hundred weight between these two places, which, though it seems expensive transportation, was only in accordance with the incidental expense, my teamsters receiving sixteen dollars a day and the distance being about a hundred miles. Meanwhile I engaged myself in mercantile pursuits, but soon relinquished this; and made all necessary arrangements for again visiting the dry diggings, depositing my money with a mercantile firm at Sacramento City, instructing them in regard to its disposition in the event of an accident to me, which was always to be apprehended under the existing circumstances in the mines.

Getting my wagons loaded and started for Mormon Island, another mining district, I hired a horse and started to the old dry diggings. This was in the Spring and the entire surface of the country presented the appearance of a rich flower garden, covered with beautiful and variegated plants, which greatly relieved the monotony and tediousness of the journey. Today a man made his appearance in the road, about three hundred yards in advance of me, and sat down. Upon discovering me, he rose and walked on in the direction I was traveling for a short distance and then commenced running. I thought his conduct strange, and fearing he was endeavoring to join some accomplice and secrete himself, for one must always be suspicious here, I thought it best to leave the road and take a route through the mountains, where the traveling was very difficult indeed, that night camping alone in the mountains.

Next day I reached the mines where I learned that two men had murdered and robbed a man who had left there the day before with a considerable sum of money; two other men were going in the same direction and hearing the report of the gun, galloped to the top of a hill, where they saw two persons bending over the body of a man, and a horse they supposed to be his, running off. One of the horsemen immediately returned for a force for their arrest, leaving the other to watch; this was on the same road, and not far from the place I saw the man running the day before. A party of twenty persons started in pursuit, and charging in the direction indicated by the man left to watch the murderers, in three hours five of them returned with a Spaniard well bound with ropes, and taking the dead body returned to the diggings. This procession was met by about fifty miners with the universal exclamation of “Hang Him” “Hang Him”, but it was concluded to defer this till the company in pursuit of the other murderer returned, and the Spaniard was chained to a log to await the arrival of his accomplice should he be taken. This man stoutly protested his innocence and proved to the satisfaction of all that he had no money about his person, yet all were convinced of his guilt. About dark the company returned unsuccessful in their pursuit, when it was agreed the prisoner should be hung next morning; accordingly he was taken to a tree, a rope thrown over a limb, and a handkerchief tied over his eyes when he expressed a wish to talk; the handkerchief was removed, when he acknowledged he was an accomplice in the murder, but an American shot the man and obtained all the money; he further said that he had killed eight persons and told of many others who were also engaged in robbing and murder, saying he was now ready to die. As may be imagined he was ably assisted by every man present.

At this place the miners were doing very well, realizing from sixteen to thirty six dollars each day. I remained here for a day and again set out for Coloma where I arrived in safety and remaining two days left for Sacramento to meet my teams. Finding a gentleman going this way we went together and stopped that night at a public house. Making an early start next morning, we continued our journey, but about ten o’clock our horses became frightened, when we discovered the lifeless bodies of two men lying upon the roadside; one of these bodies had its head completely detached, while the throat of the other one was cut; to all appearances the murders had been but recently committed and feeling pretty sure of being attacked ourselves we urged our horses forward to Leadsdolph’s Ranche, where I remained, my companion hurrying on to Sacramento to make known this sad affair. A party of citizens well armed came out on horseback, but the bodies were not recognized by any of them so they were conveyed to the City cemetery for interment.

In Sacramento I awaited the arrival of my teams and disposing of them both, purchased a wagon and six mules, of which I took charge myself, transporting merchandise from here to Mormon Island, a distance of forty-five miles over a good road and receiving twenty-five dollars for every hundred pounds of freight. I had made two trips when it was currently reported that robbers had been seen on Dry Creek on this road and that several persons were missing who had traveled it. Of course this report caused me to watch closely on my next trip and hearing a noise in the bushes by the roadside, I saw a man hurrying out of the thicket to the road, with a rifle in his hand. He was genteelly dressed, other than being in his shirt sleeves, which, under the circumstances and at this place, made me suspect him so I urged my team into a trot. As soon as he was near enough he pointed a rifle at me, but throwing myself on the opposite side of my saddle mule, and starting the team in a run my person was covered in the retreat by the wagon-bed and I was soon out of reach. Upon my arrival at Sacramento, I sold this team and bought one of oxen, with an assortment of goods to load my wagon, as an adventure to take to the Stanislaus River, and in company with two young men traveled to the crossing of the McCormus River where we were told that a battle had taken place, the day before between the whites and Indians, which resulted in twenty-five Indians being killed without any loss of whites. Here we also learned that the miners at Mickelemnes River were making from twenty to forty dollars a day when they worked.

After two more days’ travel we reached the Mickelemnes River and found the miners doing even better than we heard for they were averaging fifty dollars per day to every man that worked. Here I disposed of some of my goods at high prices and remaining a day or two started for the Stanislaus River. The country contiguous to this river is quite rough and mountainous, some parts seeming almost impassable for a wagon, but we moved along slowly, finding a trading tent by the way. This trading establishment was mostly patronized by Indians and the proprietor informed us that he was carrying on a profitable business, as an illustration he told us some Indians visited him the day before and wished to buy some raisins, but having no scales to weigh them he put a pole across a rock, and tying a box of raisins to one end, demanded enough gold dust to balance it, in payment for them, which they very promptly furnished. After stopping some little time at this tent, we proceeded on slowly over a broken country and arrived at the crossing of the Stanislaus River where I met an old friend whom I had not seen since leaving my home in Virginia. We were of course mutually rejoiced at meeting each other, and in his company I spent two or three hours very pleasantly, as only those who have been long among strangers can imagine, but, there being no grass at this place for my oxen, I left him reluctantly and driving five miles further to a house kept by an unmarried man camped for the night.

Learning here that the Indians had a day or two before made hostile demonstrations in the neighborhood, we hesitated a little before going farther; but I was anxious to proceed, and my young companions expressing their willingness to be guided by me and pledging themselves to help defend my property, I concluded we might venture off, being well armed with guns and revolvers. We drove on as fast as ever we could encamping at night on the road and reaching the diggings in the evening. Here things looked quite flourishing, there were ten stores, and perhaps three hundred miners obtaining considerable quantities of gold. We were told of one man who had found one piece of the precious metal that weighted twenty-five and a half pounds; this fortunate individual bade adieu to the mines and left for his home, I think in Missouri. I procured employment for myself and team here in moving some miners after which I continued towards Stockton, distant perhaps a hundred and twenty miles.