I had not proceeded far on the road before I overtook another team that had been stopped in consequence of seeing on the road a couple of villains, one of whom was suspected of murdering three persons a short time previous. Deeming it unsafe to travel alone, this wagon was waiting for company and it was agreed that we should travel together.

After three days’ driving we reached Stockton safely, where I endeavored to dispose of my team, but being unable to obtain my price determined to return to Sacramento by a route but little traveled, thereby relieving my mind to a great extent of the apprehension of robbers, almost everywhere to be found on the great thoroughfare in the mining districts. On the road I passed many ranches beautifully situated in the midst of a fine agricultural country, with everywhere an abundance of grass for my cattle, but found the Mickelemnes River very high so that I had to cross in a boat kept here. At the McCormus River the water was very high, also without any apparent means of crossing, or any house near to obtain assistance. I went to work, however, and constructed an affair of rushes which answered very well for transporting my effects, and making a rope fast to my lead oxen, and one end to the wagon, I obliged them to swim across with it; by this time it was nearly dark, but hurriedly replacing my goods in the wagon, I drove about two miles and remained at a ranche during the night.

There were some of the most beautiful horses I ever saw; the proprietor sent out and had his horses brought in, consisting of three hundred head, and I here witnessed for the first time the operation of lassoing, which was expertly done. This gentleman informed me that, before the discoveries of gold here, cattle could be bought in any number at one dollar a head, or if a person wished a beef he was at liberty to kill any he saw, provided he would return the skin to the owner. Leaving this place, I arrived in the evening at Sacramento where I found business quite lively and concluded to build and settle down to mercantile pursuits, but being taken sick just at this time I abandoned the idea for the present.

The physician, whom I consulted in relation to my sickness, gave me two or three powders and promised to call and see me next morning, but did not. During the day I sold my wagon and team and determined to go down to San Francisco; but meeting with my doctor on the street I informed him of my intention, asking his charge for the powders he had given me; he replied that under the circumstances he would charge but fifty dollars; I thought he was jesting and so expressed myself to him assuring him that I intended going to San Francisco that day and wished to pay his bill; he said he was in earnest and he really charged fifty dollars; I then told him that for once in my life I would be obliged to refuse the payment of a bill; that I would pay him one ounce of gold (sixteen dollars) and no more; he turned on his heel very indignantly and walked away. That day I went down to the steam boat landing to start and descried the doctor standing near; finally he stepped up to me and said he believed he would take the sum I proposed, so I paid him and left Sacramento.

Arriving at San Francisco, at two o’clock, A.M., next day, I felt considerably better, and my health was soon so much improved that I was able to engage in any business that presented itself quite successfully. Everything appeared prosperous here, and every person employed at something but in addition to the great number of gamblers to be found in the City at all hours of the day and night, there was another class of robbers who were styled the Hounds. Scarcely a day passed without some evidence of their bad conduct. In some instances they would attack persons on the street at night, and literally beating them to death, rob their bodies and throw them into the bay; other persons, living witnesses of their crimes, could be seen on the street, dreadfully beaten and robbed of their honest earnings in the mines. Often when they were just about to return to their homes in the Atlantic States to enjoy them with their families. These were common occurrences and created little comment in the community; in fact, so great was the number of these scoundrels that the laws were inadequate for the suppression of their crimes so constantly perpetrated.

At last the respectable portion of the citizens determined to adopt some course that would terminate such conduct, and organized a Vigilance Committee, which was soon very formidable and effective, and in view of the inefficiency of the civil laws, regarded justifiable. These Committees were formed in many parts of the mining districts also, and checked to a great extent the outrages committed there.

I now contemplated returning to Oregon, where the people were said to be doing exceedingly well. In consequence of the great demand for lumber in California, they erected saw mills and, being surrounded by vast forests of the finest timber near the mills, they were able to furnish such lumber as was wanted by their neighbors in California, at moderate prices, making it advantageous for the consumer and speculator to go there to obtain lumber for his market. I found no difficulty in procuring a passage to the Columbia River; as there were several vessels preparing for a voyage in that direction; and in the summer of 1849 I left San Francisco, reaching the Columbia River after a long and tedious voyage of twenty-five days in consequence of head winds and calms, and ascended it to the mouth of the Willamette River, where the vessel was to receive her cargo.

Conversing with friends here I learned that during my absence they had been getting along quietly and prosperously, and I could see that the condition of the people was much improved, however, my prejudices were in favor of the Puget Sound Country, where I had taken a claim and built a sort of house prior to leaving Oregon, and as soon as possible I started in that direction. After six days’ travel, during which I suffered all the time from fever and ague, I reached the head of the Sound, finding everything prosperous; the few people I had left here a few months previous had situated themselves comfortably in farms; a grist mill had been completed under the auspices of Col. Michael Simmons, and there had been some accessions to the community from other parts of the Territory.

Remaining here a month, I took passage in a vessel that was here loading with timber for San Francisco market, in which City I purchased a stock of merchandise and, returning with my goods to the Sound, built a house and soon disposed of my supply. During my last visit to San Francisco there was considerable inquiry made as to the probable existence of coal in Oregon, and it did not seem to me unlikely, from the appearance of the country along Puget Sound though I had been but a few miles north or west of the Sound on terra firma. I now determined to undertake a trip of exploration, and see what I could ascertain in relation to this matter. I obtained a canoe and seven Indians to paddle it, taking care to lay in a sufficiency of provisions and a lot of presents for the natives. My party was well armed, I furnishing each of them with a musket and bayonet, in addition to their knives, which they always carry, and myself with ample means of defence.

We started in the direction of the northern boundaries of the Territory which could be approached in canoes by the waters of Puget Sound, intending to prospect anywhere on the route where there were indications of coal, or where I could obtain information from the natives favorable to its existence. The first night, I encamped at the mouth of the Puyallup River, where I discovered my Indians were very proud of their muskets with bayonets; it was quite amusing to see their maneuvers with these arms, of which they had never seen any before, and they told me they intended having a fight before we returned, and capturing some slaves.

We left here and proceeded slowly northward, for the prevailing winds are so violent at this season, that at times it is unsafe to travel in canoes. My Indians were anxious to stop but I insisted on continuing, though the wind was now blowing a half gale, and they seemed a good deal alarmed for our safety. However we reached Alki Point, an excellent harbor against the prevailing winds in Winter, without accident. A great many Indians came from their houses to the beach here, to ascertain where we came from. All the Indians I have met with in this region have a great deal of curiosity, and they are certain to know very soon after your arrival amongst them, all that the Indians who are with you are in possession of in relation to you; so they were soon pretty well posted in regard to me; indeed such was the nature of my business, that I desired they should know as I expected to derive considerable information from them about the coal. As they seemed well disposed, I opened my valise and gave them all presents, to the men pipes and tobacco, to the women small looking-glasses and brass rings. These seemed to please them very much, and by way of reciprocity, or to obtain more presents they gave me as many clams and salmon as I wanted.

I then exhibited a piece of coal and asked them where I could find some of the same sort; they examined it well, tasted of it and were curious to know what I wanted with it, expressing much astonishment at being told it would burn like wood; I told them to examine the country all around and if they found any and would bring it to me I would pay them well, which they promised to do.

From here we proceeded in the direction of Whidby’s Island and the tide being in our favor besides a good breeze from the south, we traveled fast landing early in the day at a place on Whidby’s Island where smoke was issuing from the earth. This fire may have arisen from the igniting of a material somewhat resembling coal, by an Indian camp fire; I noticed this material at different places near, but finding nothing approximating coal except this substance, abandoned the search here.

One of the Indians who was with me, exercised his new musket by killing a splendid buck, giving us an excellent supper of venison, after which the Indians went out in the canoe to catch some fish for breakfast; this was done by means of a pole about ten feet long split and sharpened at the end. They proceeded noiselessly, having a torch of fir wood, intended I suppose to attract the fish to the surface, where they are skillfully taken by means of the poles; in a short time they returned with a quantity of delicious fish, more than enough for us all.

On the following morning we made an early start and paddled along the shore of the island greatly pleased with the appearance of the rich level land which had many large fine prairies near the shore and seemed well timbered, principally with fir of the finest growth. I felt sure that this would become a prominent agricultural part of the territory from the many advantages so perceptible.

That day we came in sight of a large party of natives who seemed to be fighting; I inquired of my Indians what it meant or whether they were really fighting? they replied that they were “hias Silex” that is very angry. We ventured near enough to be able to see what they were doing without seeming to attract their attention; they continued charging and rushing through the midst of the crowd; apparently fighting, scalping and killing each other. I could see them strike with knives when one would fall as though dead, and his antagonist would spring upon him knife in hand and go through all the formula of scalping him at the same time cutting off a bunch of hair, which he would hold up exultingly, representing the scalp of an enemy; then rushing at another in the most furious way, he would perhaps stumble and fall when his adversary would serve him in like manner. This was a mock fight, gotten up for the purpose of preparing themselves for a movement against an enemy, and, when I understood there was nothing serious in all this, I enjoyed it very much. Soon they finished this pantomime and beckoned us to come ashore.

I referred it to the Indians whether it would be proper to venture among them, and after some conversation among themselves they concluded we might go. They were a queer looking set, being painted in the most ferocious way imaginable, but after getting fairly among them, and giving some little demonstrations of my friendship for them they sat down and began telling the cause of their dissatisfaction. A wife of one of their Tyees had been stolen from him, leaving the poor fellow only two wives in hand. A tyee is a person among them regarded as superior in every respect to the ordinary people and one whom they both fear and respect. Polygamy is an accredited institution among these natives. A man may have as many wives as he is able to pay for, and they are regarded a a good investment for the women are expected to do the principal part of the work and the more wives a fellow has the more work is performed in the way of supplying for him, their lord and master, who lives very comfortably; and it is really astonishing to see with what devotion these women will cater to the wants of their lazy husbands; their wants are fully supplied if they have plenty to eat and a fire to sit by, which can always be obtained by a man with plenty of wives, whereas a poor devil, who may have but one, if she should be sick stands the chances of perishing and freezing. As for clothing they rarely wear any of consequence, and a fellow who has a blanket to pin around his neck, is considered well attired; this perhaps is given him by some one in consideration of his being a tyee and having so many wives.

This woman had been carried off by an Indian belonging to the Snohomish tribe, and these people informed me that they designed in the morning crossing over the Island where the Snohomishes were, and engaging in a fight with them, and were desirous that my seven Indians and I should join them in the expedition. I told them I had not come among them to fight, upon the contrary, to cultivate a friendly feeling with all Indians. They then wished to borrow all my muskets for the occasion, but I declined lending them, inasmuch as I entertained as much friendship for the other tribe as for them, and, as an earnest of this, I proposed going with them and if possible settle the difficulty for them, provided they would leave their arms in camp. After considerable talk, one with the other, they agreed to do this. Accordingly in the morning we started with sixty men in the company, I with some presents intended for the Snohomish tribe in the adjustment of the difficulties. They all proceeded very orderly until we struck a trail leading to the eastern part of the Island, when they halted and concluded they would return to their camp and get their guns.

I tried to persuade them to go unarmed, but they insisted upon returning, while I remained until they came back. I then asked what they were going to do. They replied they feared the other Indians would kill them if they went without their guns, and expressed a wish that I should accompany them. I told them that if they designed fighting I would have nothing to do with them, but they assured me that they had no such intention, but wanted the woman; and if I would accompany them they would secrete themselves in the woods, while I negotiated for the woman and would remain there unobserved until I sent for them. They seemed to think I could effect all they desired, and I told them that I would go on those conditions. The old chief then blackened his face, and kneeling down made a most lamentable noise, something like a forced cry, at the same time making all sorts of gyrations with his hands; during this time the rest of them were painting themselves in a way I supposed for war, but as they had pledged me their word to a compliance with their own proposition, I did not attach much importance to this. After finishing this painting they all got their clubs, knives, and implements of war, and formed themselves in a circle around the chief, jumping, yelling and dancing most furiously for about half an hour. The chief seeming to participate fully in the excitement. When they ceased I asked what it meant, they replied “Cultus”.

We started to the eastern part of the Island traveling very cautiously, and finally reached a prairie in sight of the salt water, where we discovered the spies of the other tribe. As soon as they saw us they ran to give intelligence of our approach and I told my party to halt, and not move till they heard from me.

I went on to the enemy’s camp, taking only one Indian with me, and on nearing the village, met an old gray-haired Indian, of whom I asked where the young men of his tribe were; he said they were absent from home, and I proceeded to the village and, entering the house where the stolen woman was, asked her the same question. She pointed to the woods, and on going in that direction I found the Indians lying in the brush armed with bows and arrows, guns, etc., ready to fire on the others as soon as they approached near enough.

I spoke to them and asked if they were in search of a mowitch? (deer). They said no, and I then asked if they wanted to fight? They replied that they did. I expostulated with them, telling them I was afraid they had bad hearts; that good men did not wish to fight, presenting them at the same time pipes and tobacco and expressing my desire that they would compromise and remove the hard feeling existing between them and the other Indians. I then asked where the man was, who had the woman in dispute, and taking him by the hand in a friendly way asked him to walk with me towards the village, which after some hesitation he agreed to do.

He took me to his house, and pointing out the woman, said that sometime ago she was his wife, but being in arrears four blankets of the number he was to pay for her, her friends took her away from him and sold her to another man, but had failed to return him the blankets he had advanced for her purchase. I told him the Snoqualmie Chief was willing to do anything I might suggest and asked what he wanted. He said if the Snoqualmie Indians would pay him two blankets and one blanket they might take the woman. I urged that two blankets would be enough, but he persisted in his demand.

Just at this time all of his friends, who were lying in ambush made their appearance and joined us, being curious no doubt to hear the purport of our conversation and my party of Indians hearing them talking and supposing everything amicably adjusted, advanced within a short distance of us; when they were discovered by the Snohomishes. The latter sprang to their arms, whooping, and yelling; some standing their ground and others retreating to the woods. Two of the Snohomishes were in the act of firing on my party but I held their guns and prevented them, calling to my men not to shoot but fall back to the place I left them; they refrained from shooting but would not return to their old position, remaining near enough to converse with the other Indians.

In the midst of this, quite a large party was discovered advancing from the beach, probably numbering a hundred, and to all appearances a war party. I took advantage of this circumstance to exhort the Indians to become friends, in view of the advance of an enemy, and they joined each other seemingly forgetful that they had ever been in opposition. They all secreted themselves, sending out a spy, with instructions if the party proved friends, to come from his place of concealment to the beach, where we could see him but if an enemy he was to remain hid; he soon discovered the character of the party and made his appearance as agreed upon. They proved to be a party headed by the father of the woman in dispute, who, learning a battle was imminent, had mustered about a hundred men and come to take sides with the most powerful party; this is quite common, as they invariably like to be associated with the strongest party, being the most arrant cowards imaginable.

As soon as this third party arrived, Snoqualmie Indians who had been mixed up with their adversaries, in anticipation of a fight, drew off to a distance of about fifty yards. When the new party came up, I gave the Chief who was also the father of the woman, some small presents, and informed him that I came to settle the difficulty without fighting; he then mounted a rock and made a speech expressing his desire that the affair be settled without blood; upon which all hands engaged in quite a spirited talk for about half an hour, finally agreeing that the Snoqualmies should pay to the Snohomishes, two blankets and two muskets and take the woman. When she was brought out and given up, all parties fired their guns into the air as a declaration of friendship, and then separated, I going with the Snoqualmies to their camp on the beach and remaining till morning. Returning to the shore of Whidby Island, I got my canoe and proceeded on to Point Partridge, the most northwesterly point of this Island. Here for the first time, I saw a white deer, which I killed. It was a great curiosity to me, but the Indians informed me they had seen many such in this neighborhood.

The next morning we reached Deception Passage,where we found quite a large encampment of the Lummy Indians, to whom, as usual, I gave presents, and inquired if they knew of the existence of coal anywhere; they thought the same kind of stone that I showed them could be obtained at Bellingham Bay, but, as my stock of provisions was now getting low, in consequence of giving more or less to all the Indians I had been among, I concluded to return to the head of the Sound without having effected anything more than my gratification at the beautiful country I had seen; and after several days’ paddling we again arrived at Puget Sound.

Still not satisfied with my explorations upon the Sound, there being a vessel here bound for the Straits of Fuca, I concluded to put the residue of my goods on board and take passage on her as far as I could on the Sound. I found a man willing to accompany me, and after a pleasant sail of five or six days we came to anchor at Neah Bay, the first harbor inside the straits of Fuca, and near Cape Classet, the extreme northwest corner of the territory on the sea; here we went on shore and, being pleased with the situation of the place, determined to erect a house at once, that would answer for a trading establishment. The land immediately on the Bay is well adapted to agricultural purposes, and the advantages it had in many respects as a trading post, at first sight prejudiced me in favor of it, but the man whom I took down with me declined stopping here, and proceeded to San Francisco the vessel leaving me alone, and it was not until the departure of the vessel that I realized fully my isolated situation; though I was determined to make the best of it.

Having my few goods in this house where I lived, it was necessary to stay there pretty closely, and I was visited by large numbers of the most primitive looking creatures imaginable; some with furs covering parts of their bodies others entirely without and some with blankets manufactured by themselves, from the hair of dogs. Of these animals they raise a great many which they regularly shear and weave the hair into blankets in a way very peculiar to themselves, quite heavy; and very coarse. These people flocked around my house, manifesting a great deal of curiosity, and in such numbers that I began to feel somewhat apprehensive of mischief, as on all their visits they were armed with knives and bows and arrows, and seemed dissatisfied with my presence there. Pretty soon they informed me that they wished me to leave at once; to this I objected, telling them I intended remaining peaceably on my part, and that I wanted them to pursue a similar course toward me. I told them a great many things by way of reconciling them to my remaining, in regard to myself, but they availed nothing as they continued to visit my house with the demand that I should leave, this I always refused to do; in fact I did not know how I could, provided I had the inclination. True, I had purchased a canoe from them, which was at my disposal, but for me to have attempted to go anywhere would have been the height of folly, as they would have pursued and probably killed me; besides I could not manage the canoe alone in these waters.

Finally, one day a large deputation, perhaps two hundred in number, approached, well armed and ordered me to go immediately. On my refusing they told me that they would give me three days to leave, and if at the expiration of that time I still remained I might expect the most serious consequences. During the three days they did not visit me as usual, but occasionally a straggling fellow would come about, no doubt to see how I was progressing in my preparations to leave. On the third day they manifested a good deal of uneasiness and in the evening came and took away one of their people whom I had employed to wait on me. I was determined to defend myself against any attack they might make, which I was fearful they contemplated doing that night, so I put in order and loaded all the guns I had, between fifteen and twenty, and calling a little boy who was passing about dark, promised him a present if he would stay with me all night. I supposed that by having this boy with me, they would not fire in the house, or at all events he could not get out without my knowledge, if I chanced to fall asleep, as I had the house well barricaded inside. About midnight I heard a noise and could soon distinctly hear the Indians whispering outside. I then cocked a gun, lying beside me, of which the boy was conscious, as also of the fact that a number of his friends were out side, intent on mischief, and being alarmed lest I might shoot some of them, he called to them and told them that I was well armed and on the lookout for them, advising them to leave with haste as I was going to shoot; where upon I could hear them running off in the direction of their village.

In the morning I found that my canoe had been considerably broken the night before, and at the same time perceived a number of the Indians coming toward my house. I determined to try a ruse on them and see how it would work so I sat down at a table and taking a pen, ink and paper, appeared to be very busy writing; the Indians all the while were standing around the door wondering what I was about, and seeming to be very suspicious of my writing; of this they had some knowledge, having seen one person communicate by writing with another some distance off at the Hudson’s Bay Company’s trading establishment on Vancouver Island, and I knew what they thought of these suspicious articles, as they had told me of their strange discovery. I continued writing, notwithstanding I was frequently asked what I was doing, and by this time about two hundred were congregated, all eager to know what I was writing about. I finally told confidentially to a lesser Tyee, that I was writing to the Boston Tyee, the President of the United States, of course expecting that he would tell this startling news to the whole of them as soon as he would get out of my presence.

Soon they came in groups and asked me in the most supplicating manner to desist from writing, but I paid no sort of attention to them; finally the chief came and begged that I would quit writing, and that I would burn what I had already written; I ceased for a moment and requested him to ask his people how they would like to have their canoes broken without having been guilty of anything to justify such conduct, and whether in fact I had ever done anything to them that they should so badly act towards me. This seemed to have a most salutary effect, for they at once proposed fixing my canoe up again in first rate order, and as a pledge of their good feeling offered to give me twenty baskets of potatoes provided I would burn this paper. I finally agreed to it provided that they would afterwards deport themselves civilly towards me, and said I would only take nine baskets of potatoes and to repair my canoe.

After this they appeared more reconciled to my being among them, but I concluded to return to the Sound, and procured a crew of three Indians to take me as far as Port Townsend. We accordingly left Neah Bay, and proceeded up the Strait in fine style, having a strong crew and fine weather. We reached Port Townsend in three days, where I had understood a Mr. Plummer and another gentleman had located themselves, but they were at that time absent, so there were no white persons here. Discharging the crew of Macaw Indians who brought me here, I found no difficulty in supplying their place with Clallams from this place and in five days reached the head of the Sound, or “Stickas”, as it was called by them.

I remained here a few days and then determined to renew my search for coal, so getting my canoe, crew, provisions, etc., in readiness we started with a fair wind and in two days reached the mouth of the Snohomish River where I found a considerable village of the natives who seemed civilly disposed and pleased to see me. Here I encamped for the night during which some of these people stole my axe, the only one I had, and without which I could not well proceed. Telling the Chief, he called them all up, and ordering them to be seated on the ground lectured them on the impropriety of stealing my axe, and ordered the guilty man to produce the stolen property which one of them immediately did, and threw it down in the midst of us; he was severely reprimanded and there ended the affair.

This chief informed me of something which he thought was coal, on the Stielaguamas River, and when I expressed my desire to go there the Indians who came with me were very much afraid to accompany me; accordingly I discharged them and, procuring two men here, reached the Stilaguamas River, that day, and ascended it about five miles, when we came to an Indian House. The occupants appeared quite shy, and indisposed to have anything to do with me, so I determined to make friends with them in the most successful way I had ever tried with Indians. They seemed at once to appreciate my motive, for no sooner did I commence giving them some trifling presents than they began to regard me kindly, and evince some interest in me expressing their gratification at my traveling through their country.

In the morning we left these Indians and continued up the river, which we found very shallow and rapid. We were obliged to get poles and shove our canoe along that day, paddling would have been of little use in that current. After ascending the river for fifteen miles, we came in sight of a number of houses made of mats, with the occupants sitting on the bank of the river, watching our progress towards them; as soon as they discovered a white man in the canoe they sprang up in the utmost confusion and raced off, apparently much alarmed. Upon landing, we went to their houses and found them all deserted, not a soul to be seen for sometime, but ultimately I discovered in a corner of one of these houses something covered over very carefully with mats, which I had the curiosity to remove, revealing a grey haired trembling old man, so old he could not make his escape with the rest, and they had left him to the mercy of the white man; finding the old man so much alarmed I gave him a pipe and tobacco, with a small looking glass and he seemed to think the white man not altogether so formidable as supposed. Giving him all the assurances of friendship in my power we proceeded up the river, and soon noticed a little girl running up the stream at full speed, probably following the others who had abandoned the village, and seemingly greatly frightened; following the bank of the river sometime she at last jumped into the water and swimming to the other side soon disappeared in the distance.

My Indians continued this poling which was a very tedious and laborious operation, and every mile we advanced the current became more rapid; when, after two or three hours’ hard work, we reached a village where I suppose there were three hundred Indians; they perceived the approach of the canoe, and were all assembled on the margin of the river, waiting our arrival, they did not speak or evince any particular feeling on the subject, but sat and gazed unmeaningly at us. I asked for their Chief, but they made no reply, when I told one of my men to go in search of him; this he refused to do saying the Indians were angry and he was afraid to leave me. I then struck him slightly over the shoulders, and ordered him to start; when he did so all of these three hundred morose spectators commenced talking among themselves as if they were displeased with my conduct towards my Indians. When the man returned, he said the Chief would not come; but after awhile he made his appearance and spoke to his people, when they advanced to him and formed themselves into platoons on his right and left. This rather imposing display caused me to step out of the canoe, when they advanced to a respectable distance from me and halted; the chief then made the sign of the cross, and shook hands with me, after which the entire company advanced and went through the same ceremony, afterwards taking seats on the ground in good order.

I then got out the little trinkets I had brought along as presents and gave them all something, which pleased them greatly; these people were all entirely naked except the chief who had a blanket pinned around his neck.

I encamped here among them choosing to pitch my tent near the house occupied by the Chief, and soon commenced my preparations for supper, which seemed to create considerable curiosity, for they all assembled around to witness the operation, which rendered it a little annoying to me, as I would have to offer them part, which I did not come prepared to do; however I gave them some bread, doubtless the first they had ever seen, of which they tasted and did not seem to particularly fancy; I then gave them some fried ham which they tasted and talked of, but I do not think they ate it. Bidding them good night, I closed my tent and laid down feeling rather dubious about going to sleep for I could hear considerable talking in the chief’s house, and, from the number of voices, supposed all the Indians I had seen were congregated, talking over my arrival, which they kept up until about two o’clock in the morning.

By this time I had learned enough to know they intended killing me, though it was not till after considerable talk that this was concluded upon, as some were in favor of keeping me as a slave. I had sufficient knowledge of their language to understand all this and finally became so nervous that I determined to get up and join them, figuring that the fleas were so troublesome I could not sleep; these pests were very annoying, yet I might have slept but for the apprehension of losing my head before morning. When I entered the house I was received with some demonstration of surprise, but I had taken the care to bring with me some pipes and tobacco as peacemakers, and presenting them to the more prominent among them they seemed somewhat relieved of their embarrassment and after remaining in familiar conversation with them for perhaps an hour I returned to my tent still feeling a little uneasy.

Soon the council broke up and I could hear them going off to their homes, which rather relieved my mind, and thinking as, these men had not slept any through the night, they would soon be asleep and likely to remain so till a pretty late hour in the morning, it would be better for me to get away without encountering them again, I soon had my breakfast prepared and awoke the Chief, informing him that I was now going to leave, and asking his permission to travel on up the river, which he granted; so I bade him an affectionate adieu and started without seeing any of his people.

I had not proceeded far on our way before I heard a tremendous whooping and yelling, and saw a large canoe coming at a rapid rate after us, having fifteen men with poles working most industriously to overtake up; this party presented rather a wild appearance, with their faces, arms and legs painted black, with spots of red here and there, by way of relief, or to make them look as savage as possible.

My Indians ran the canoe ashore and sprang from it, urging me to do the same and run for my life, as the Indians would surely kill me if I remained in the canoe; this I refused to do but told them if they were alarmed they might go; they said they did not wish to leave me, but were not sufficiently armed to resist this formidable party, so I gave them a knife each, and, knowing I was pretty well armed, they resumed their seats in the canoe, saying they would die with me, rather than desert me. Pretty soon these unwelcome visitors were alongside of us, and jumping out of their canoe upon the beach, commenced yelling, dancing and brandishing their huge knives in the most threatening manner, while my two Indians and myself looked on quite composedly expecting them to commence an attack, yet determined to give them as hard a battle as our means and strength would allow.

I discovered that they had one gun and that was in the canoe by ours, and I intended preventing their reaching it, while I had two pairs of colt revolvers and determined to shoot every one who advanced towards my canoe or the musket in theirs. My two Indians behaved very well fully conscious of the danger we were in, yet calmly awaiting my orders.

Before any advance was made by the hostile party we heard a yelling of Indians coming up the river who soon arrived in our midst, and I soon saw were here for the purpose of interceding in my behalf; these were principally old men, having a peaceful appearance, for they were neither armed nor painted, and immediately took a position between my canoe and the war party, and commenced talking loud and earnestly to them. It was now quite evident that they were expostulating with their brethren on the wrong of taking my life, and those of my Indians, in consideration of which I presented each of them a small looking glass. They then continued their speeches to the young men, and told them among other things that I was unlike the two persons they had previously killed, for I had been kind to them and given them many things, while the others did not; this was startling information for I now ascertained that they had taken the lives of two persons, probably the only white ones who had ever visited these regions. During these speeches of the old Indians, who had great difficulty in making themselves heard above the general confusion of voices, the dance ceased and all listened attentively to what was said, which seemed to quiet the young men, as they appeared quite subdued by the time the speeches were concluded.

I then asked to be permitted to say a few words, which they all seemed anxious to hear. I told them I entertained the warmest friendship for all Indians themselves particularly, and that they ought to feel under everlasting obligations to these old men for the interference, for to them they were all indebted for their lives. They eagerly inquired how that could be and I very calmly informed them that I had a little gun of such wonderful power and capacity that after loading it in the morning it would shot all day without being exhausted. They did not believe me till I took one of my revolvers from my coat pocket and fired it very leisurely six times, as an illustration, returning it to the pocket containing the other three. Of course they were perfectly astonished at this never having seen a revolver before. They then asked if it would shoot again, when I took out one exactly like the first and fired it off; after long conversation with each other they finally asked me if it would shoot again; I told them it could shoot all day if necessary, and, to satisfy them, emptied the third pistol.

Now they commenced to laugh and congratulate each other that they had escaped a difficulty with me, and to demonstrate their gratitude to me by laughing and shaking hands, feeling they had made a lucky escape in not effecting their design on me, as they would all have been “mamaloosed” -- killed. So, after establishing among them the impression that the white man was invulnerable to their attacks, possessing the greatest gun ever imagined, and capable of killing their whole tribe in one day, I said to them that notwithstanding all my endeavors to cultivate a friendly intercourse with them, I was fearful some of the young men were unwilling for me to travel through their country and I would return down the river, disappointed in my reception. This they said I must not do as on the contrary I had full liberty to go where I pleased in their country, and with this understanding I took leave of them, they returning to their village, while I with my two Indians shoved off our canoe and proceeded up the river.

I found a vein of fine looking coal up the river, where I remained till evening and left on my return, passing the Indian village in the night, so I did not see any of my recently made friends, and next morning reached the mouth of Snohomish River, and was welcomed back by my friend the Chief of the Snohomish Tribe. Spending the night with him, I left next morning for my home at the head of the Sound, which after three days I reached passing on my way five large encampments of Indians; viz: the Snohomish, Snoqualmie, Duwamish, Puyallups and Nisquallys all of whom were friendly.

On arriving at the head of the Sound, I found they were proposing to build the town of Olympia here, where one frame house had been erected, as a store house. After remaining here four or five days I arranged for another trip to the Stilaguawamish River, as, since my return, I had conditionally disposed of the half of my interest in the coal mine, I discovered there, and by the arrangement a gentleman of the purchasing party accompanied me.

Upon our arrival at the mouth of the Snohomish, my old friend the Chief informed me there was a nearer way to reach the coal district than by the river, so procuring a guide we started on the overland route, which we found very difficult and fatiguing and at times almost impassable from the fallen timber blocking our way; some of these trees were immense, and curiosity prompted me to measure one of them, on which I stepped off one hundred steps fully equivalent to two hundred and seventy-five feet and was obliged to abandon the farther measurement of this leviathan at a point on the trunk where it would have measured three feet in diameter. I saw many trees equally large standing on this tramp between the Snohomish and Stilaguawamish Rivers, the country being very heavily timbered generally, though we passed on the way a beautiful little prairie, soon after which we reached the Stilguawamish village, where I had distinguished myself by having a little gun that would shoot all day. These people received us very kindly and, as it was raining, fixed us very comfortably in one of their largest houses. The men were mostly naked and the women no better off, in this respect, other than having a girdle around the waist of cedar bark; the children of these, like all other Indians, forego the burden of dress.

While we ate our supper they all crowded in, manifesting a curiosity to know what we were eating. We gave them some, but they tasted it scrupulously. We saw these men very busy talking over something which seemed to interest them very much, and at last they told us that they suspected we wanted the coal in their neighborhood to make powder to shoot them; we assured them this was not the case, and explained its use, but they would not be convinced, and getting their knives and muskets assembled together on the opposite side of the house, examining them to see they were ready for use. Of course all this ceremony was not very entertaining to us, and I thought another effort to explain coal and its properties necessary, so I harangued on this subject, and told them I had brought my companion here to see them, hoping they would treat him well, for if they did not it would not be well for them, as he was a powerful man among the whites, who were very numerous and warlike. It was soon perceptible that this had its influence, and they concluded to let us alone; so we visited the coal vein without molestation from them and returned to Olympia, where we found two more small houses had been erected.

After remaining here sometime, I felt a desire to visit the country interior from the waters of the Sound and concluded to undertake this by way of the Snohomish and Snoqualmie Rivers. Making all the needful preparations I started for the Snohomish, and after a fine run of two days reached its mouth where I again found my friend the Chief and through him had but little difficulty in procuring a crew of Snoqualmie Indians to take me up the rivers so familiar to them. I left the encampment of my old friend with a good crew in fine spirits; at least they appeared so, for they kept up an incessant singing, which sounded quite musical, as they kept time with the paddles, and our canoe glided on over the placid waters of the beautiful river like a thing of life, there being no current to resist our headway for the first two days from the mouth, the tides of the Pacific counteracting its current for some distance up, and even when the tide is receding, the current is not so strong as it would be, but for this influence. I did not sound the channel with any accuracy but believed small steamers could run in it, it being both wide and deep.

This far up the land is of good character in point of richness, but low and heavily timbered, and I should judge, from the indications subject to overflow when the river is high, which I suppose occurs annually, but is of brief duration, as it is dependent on the melting of the snows on the Summit of the Cascade Mountains and their spurs; or heavy rains in these regions, which do not generally long continue.

On the Third day’s travel we found considerable current, and the water more shallow and on the evening of this day camped on a bluff near the junction of the Squimoish and Snoqualmie Rivers with the one I had ascended.

Here the land on all sides seems better for agriculture, being more elevated and less liable to overflow, with if possible a soil of superior quality. The Squimoish River, at this point is broader than the one into which it empties, with a current of four or five miles an hour. I did not go up this river but learned from the Indians that it was bordered by extensive and fertile prairies.

In the morning we pushed our canoe off on the Snoqualmie and soon found that we had a strong current to contend with; it now became necessary for the Indians to lay aside their paddles and take poles, and at some places this day it was as much as they could do to keep the canoe straight. I found the water quite shallow where it dashed along so furiously and our travel since leaving the forks of the river was not only tiresome to my Indians but tedious to me, and by way of relief to me, they suggested that I would take a trail overland and join the canoe around a large bend in the river, one of them going with me as guide and informing me the distance was not half so far by land.

I walked along through land splendidly timbered, principally with cedar, for a short distance and came to quite a large level and rich prairie where some Snoqualmie Indians were encamped; they were somewhat surprised to see me, but as I was traveling with one of their own people treated me civilly, no doubt at his request, as they did not seem particularly pleased with me. These Indians I noticed were raising potatoes, some of which they were eating, and finer ones I never saw; from the character of the soil on this prairie I should think three or four hundred bushels might be obtained from the acre, with little cultivation besides being good for all cereal crops. In passing over the prairie I saw several very decent looking horses, and my guide informed me that his friends here had many such; I inquired where they came from and was told they raised a good many, but they were originally brought from the Eastern side of the Cascade mountains, and by means of their horses the natives here were in constant communication with the Indians over there. On the South side of the prairie we got into the timber again where the land was as rich as need be, and after meandering about over logs for some time on the well beaten Indian trail, we reached the river again at the point where we were to meet the canoe, but it had not yet arrived and I was gold by my guide that it was a considerable distance around this bend in the river, and the current very rapid; after waiting awhile, the canoe came, and the men coming on shore we took dinner and again proceeded up the river, encountering rapid currents and shallow water.

About dark we encamped for the night about a mile and a half from the great falls of this river, which the Indians said were as high as two trees they pointed out, which I suppose were one hundred feet each in length; and such was the noise occasioned by the falling water that it was impossible to sleep soundly. Next morning I took all my crew, except one left in the camp to prepare breakfast, and set out to visit these falls. We went right alongside the cataract in our canoe and beheld a most beautiful and imposing spectacle, though the roar was almost deafening. The river has a perpendicular fall of about one hundred and seventy feet, with a surface at the present stage of the water not more than thirty feet broad.

The banks upon either side of the basin, where the cataract deposits itself, are perhaps two hundred feet high, and so steep that it is impossible to climb them. After remaining sometime in admiration of this beautiful wonder of nature, I was preparing to leave, when my attention was attracted by the Indians to a beautiful rainbow, that had just made its appearance about midway the cataract, formed by the rays of the rising sun upon the water---one of the most beautiful sights I ever beheld.

Returning to camp I found a fine salmon trout, which are very plentiful in these waters, prepared in very decent style by my Indian cook, and with a tin cup of good strong coffee and some bread I made a very hearty breakfast after my excursion. The next thing to be considered was “How am I to get beyond the falls?” I told the Indians of my dilemma as to our farther progress which they seemed to regard lightly, telling me they would haul the canoe by the trail to the river above the falls, a distance of at least three miles; so, taking all I could on my shoulders we started off. The trail was in places very steep and difficult, yet the Indians found no fault, evidently regarding this as part of the expedition. They said it was not unusual for their people to haul canoes from the lower to the upper Snoqualmie River. This occupied nearly all the morning.

Finally we launched our canoe in the river above the falls, where it was as wide and appeared as deep as below the cataract with some snags occasionally in sight. After proceeding about two miles we came to where the banks were very high and had the appearance of an open country; I questioned my Indians as to our whereabouts and was told that here was “Highas close Illihes”; that is that here the land was good, so I told them to put the canoe ashore, as I wanted to see all the good land in these parts. On ascending the banks, I was highly gratified with a view of a very extensive and fertile prairie, so I determined to pitch my tent and remain till morning.

After getting some dinner, I shouldered my gun, and taking two of the Indians started across the prairie upon an apparently old Indian trail, and after walking about three miles over this extensive tract, came to a branch of the river I had ascended, and crossed on a fallen tree worn by the feet of the Indians; here we followed the trail out of a narrow bottom; coming to another extensive prairie; we continued on the trail nearly across this, when I was satisfied that it was leading us into the mountains. The Indians told me this oahut or road was an old one that had been traveled ever since the recollection of the oldest people as a thoroughfare for the Indians east and west of the Cascade Mountains when visiting each other, and that if I desired going over into the Yakima country, we could reach it in one and a half day’s journey. This I did not wish to do, and concluded to return to camp by a somewhat different route; so, starting across the prairie in a westerly direction, I came to the river about three miles from the trail where we crossed it. Over this we continued our course to the prairie in which we had encamped and found no difficulty in reaching our wild home.

This land cannot be surpassed, in any country, for grazing and agricultural purposes; this prairie proper I should think was five miles long, with perhaps an average breadth of a mile and a half, and the Prairie, I visited on the opposite side of the river, is equally extensive, and the two might be considered the same, with this beautiful little branch of the river flowing through it, pure and sparkling right from the mountains close by.

I suppose a more desirable body of land cannot be found in the territory, possessing as it does all the advantages requisite for a flourishing farming district, with, I should think, ten thousand acres of first rate arable land, with quite a variety of timber, and water power sufficient for all milling purposes, besides an extensive range for stock of all kinds, and I should think, from the reckoning I had kept of all localities and distances, that this place cannot be more than twenty-five miles from the Duwamish River, on the waters of the great inland sea of this territory.

Upon reaching camp I felt somewhat fatigued from my afternoon’s walk but greatly delighted with the entire country. During my walk the Indians in camp had caught some excellent fish which they had cooked for supper, and I partook of them with considerable relish, and after taking a smoke and chatting some with the Indians in relation to the country hereabouts I laid down, feeling satisfied that I was here, and slept comfortably till morning, rising in time to see the sun casting his first rays upon the hoary heads of the snow capped mountains around, while the air echoed with the music of the birds, and on the beautiful prairie could be seen the deer quietly feeding. The scene was one of enchantment, and I earnestly wished some of my distant friends could be here to enjoy a life at this desirable place.

After breakfast I crossed over to the opposite side of the river, and traversed the woods enough to ascertain that the land was equally rich though in some places heavily timbered, and returned satisfied from my observations that there must be a large body of land on this side that the farmers would sooner or later enjoy. During my absence two of my Indians had been out and killed a large deer and were making preparations to have some of it for dinner; so I laid down to rest, feasting my eyes on the beautiful scenery around, until they announced the muk-a-muk was ready and I abandoned this feast for one of venison, which my keen appetite enabled me to enjoy greatly. Having determined to remain here another day, and feeling contentedly lazy, I stretched myself on the ground for a nap, but was soon told that Indians were approaching from the prairie in the direction of the mountains; my Indians were of the impression they were of the Clikatat tribe from the east of the Cascades, their country being in the valley of the Yakima River, and they appeared heavily packed and each carried a gun; there were only five of them, and as our party numbered four, we were not alarmed, but got our arms in readiness in case they should be hostilely disposed.

When they advanced near enough my Indians asked who they were and were told they were Snoqualmies who had been out for several days in the mountains hunting the mountain goat, so they were invited to come on to my camp. I received them kindly, inviting them to take off their packs and be seated, which they readily did, and commenced relating their adventures to their countrymen, with apparently a great deal of interest. I learned from them that the mountain goat is very difficult to kill, being very wild and only found on the sides of the precipices and rocky mountains, where it is almost impossible for a human to climb, yet these Indians engage in their pursuit with great interest and from appearances pretty successfully, for this party of five had been out three days and had procured twelve in fine order, saying they had seen a great many, but they were hiasquos, afraid of men; they availed themselves of our camp fire to cook some of the meat which I found deliciously flavored and very tender. This party remained with us several hours and left in the direction of the country below the Falls where the tribe principally reside, at least this is considered their ilihee or land.

After they left, I strolled towards the river running through the prairie, and sitting down on the margin soon found there were plenty of mountain trout playing in the water, and looking so tempting that I longed for my fishing tackle and some of my friends to enjoy the sport with me of catching the tantalizing creatures. After spending an hour along the river I returned to camp, intending after supper to take a deer hunt, and found my Indians sitting around the fire singing one of their usual songs when satisfied and happy; they said their “tum-tums” were “hias close”, that is they felt in a perfect good humor, which is generally the case when they have eaten as much as possible and have a good fire, with the prospect of being paid something after awhile.

Telling my plans for the evening, they hurried supper, as they were desirous of joining in the hunt, and I soon started, taking two of them with me; we stationed ourselves at different points on the edge of the prairie where we could see the deer were in the habit of coming out to feed, but after remaining an hour returned unsuccessful, they had probably seen our approach or smelled us, and did not come out of the timber as usual. In the morning I determined to take a trail at the far end of the prairie, leading into the timber, and on the route of which not far distant I was told by the Indians there was another river running in quite another direction; so making arrangements to be gone from the camp for three days I started, having with me two of the Indians and leaving the other two in charge of the camp.

After leaving the prairie we traveled through an extensive bottom of rich land, timbered mostly with maple and alder, until we reached a hill rather abrupt upon the summit of which we found it rocky, having in places the appearance of a river bed at some previous time; here we halted for a few minutes rest, and the Indians informed me that some little distance ahead there was close illihee, prairie land; we again started and walked probably five miles to a very pretty little prairie with a spring of water in the middle of it, and surrounded by mountains, towering into the very clouds; the singularity of this little place induced me to remain here over night, and the Indians learning my intention soon had a fire built and supper ready, to which we all did justice. I walked down to take a look at the spring, finding the bottom literally covered with leeches, the first I had seen west of the Rocky Mountains; the Indians said they were mu-sa-chee, they were bad.

Upon interrogating my guides particularly as to my present locality they informed me that I was right at the base of the great division between the Puget Sound Country and the immense Indian country east of it, and that on the other side of the prairie was a trail leading over the mountains that had been traveled by the Snoqualmies and their friends over the Yakima Valley from the earliest remembrances. They said but a short distance from us was a river which took its source from the mountains in sight, and they supposed emptied into the waters of the Sound, and told me also that we were not exactly safe at our present camp, as the Indians from the other side often came over, who were not on friendly terms with the Snoqualmies, and stole horses and that they would not hesitate to do any other mischief beneficial to themselves; in fact my present camp was immediately on the great thoroughfare for all the tribes east and west of the mountains, but my Indians told me they intended to keep a strict watch over me during the night; I scolded them a little for not telling me of this before, but they assured me I should not be harmed during the night, and suggested that we should move off the prairie into the bush, which I assented to; they then brought water and very carefully extinguished our camp fire, and bundling up our effects led the way some distance off the trail, when I spread my blankets and slept soundly, the Indians watching by turns all night.

As soon as it was light we had breakfast and started in the direction of the river of which they told me and after traveling over a rich piece of timbered land for about two miles we came to the river, which I found to be about fifty feet wide with an average depth of eighteen inches, dashing along in a southerly direction; this is now called Cedar River, and is one of the tributaries of the Duwamish River which empties into the great Inland Sea of this territory at Seattle; besides this stream there are others of greater importance flowing through the most extensive and fertile portions of this part of the territory, presenting inducements to the emigrant nowhere else to be found in all the country adjacent to the waters of Puget Sound. In consequence of the unsettled state of affairs with the Indians, this beautiful section has been in a measure overlooked, but now that there is a prospect that something will be done on the part of the Government to bring about a satisfactory state of affairs there can be no doubt that this section will be occupied by farmers who will develop the advantages it unquestionably possesses.

Spending the day traveling the Cedar River Bottom, I returned to the prairie where we had encamped the night before, reaching it about dark and feeling pretty well tired, after getting something to eat we all laid down and slept soundly till morning, or rather till a late hour in the morning; I called the Indians when it was light and I supposed that they had slept enough, but they expostulated and said the sun was not visible, so in view of the day’s walk they had had, I allowed them and myself to remain in the blankets until the sun appeared, when we found it was at least ten o’clock, his rays having been excluded by the mountains early in the morning. As soon as we breakfasted we started on our return to the great Snoqualmie prairie, where I had left my two Indians in charge of the camp, which we reached in the evening.

They had been amusing themselves at hunting and fishing during my absence and had quite a respectable supply of game, deer, pheasants and fish, and soon gave us a rare and bountiful supper; the pheasants they had procured for my special benefit, as these Indians do not eat them, having, I believe, some kind of superstition in regard to them, and I did not attempt to disabuse their minds of this prejudice while eating the richly flavored and delicate birds myself.

Finishing my supper and lighting my pipe I sat down to hear all the Indians had to communicate and was told that during my absence some half a dozen of the Indians below had been up and were very curious to know who I was and what I was after there, intimating that they were apprehensive I had some designs on them, and if they could be satisfied of this that they would not permit me to return down the river. My Indians explained to them as well as they knew the object of my visit into their country and assured them they had received the most favorable accounts of me from the Snohomish Chief at whose instance they had accompanied me, and that their impression was that I was a mah-kook man (merchant) and if I concluded to settle among them they might consider themselves fortunate.

This my Indians said they were delighted to hear, as they would not then be obliged to go all the way to Fort Nisqually or over the British side to Victoria to do their trading. My Indians were a shrewd set of fellows and knew exactly how to represent me to secure a favorable reception for me and themselves from their countrymen on our return down the river; this story they had manufactured in relation to me, and said I must not contradict it, as in all probability this bit of news had been circulated among all the Indians we would see. Appreciating their intention, I promised them to assume the character of a Mahkook man to the best of my ability should it become necessary.

In the morning, everything being in readiness, we started and soon reached the river where the portage commenced around the Snoqualmie Falls to the river below, over the same trail; now we found the task of hauling our canoe a comparatively light one, as the way was down hill and the ground damp, and we soon launched it in the river below. The Indians built a fire and cooked some dinner, and we commenced the descent of the river “homeward bound.”